334 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE A new decorin-like tetrapeptide for optimal organization of collagen fibres A. Puig, J.M. Garcia Anto'n and M. Mangues Lipotec SA, Isaac Peral 17, 08850 Gava', Barcelona, Spain Correspondence: A. Puig, Lipotec SA, Isaac Peral 17, 08850 Gava·, Barcelona, Spain. Tel.: +34 93 638 00 00 fax: +34 93 638 93 93 e-mail: apuig@lipotec.com In line with the Operations Manual of the IFSCC, this 2007 IFSCC Conference Award winning paper will also be published in the IFSCC Magazine. Decorin interacts with collagen via its protein core a nd influences collagen fibrillogenesis, thus regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. As skin ages, there is lack of functional decorin, which results in disrupted collagen fibres and in a reduction in the tensile strength of the skin . Therefore, a substitute for decorin would make up for the non-functional decorin that is present as we age. Two tetrapeptide sequences have been identified as the specific binding sites of decorin to collagen fibrils. These sequences were engineered to generate new tetrapeptides with improved affinity that would present a decorin-like activity. A focused library of several candidates was synthesized containing only tetrapeptides that mimicked the binding sequences of decorin. The ca ndidates were screened with an in vitro collagen fibrillogenesis assay and the tetrapeptide with International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCi) name Tripeptide-10 Citrulline achieved the best results. Like decorin, this synthetic tetrapeptide proved, through in vitro tests, to regulate collagen fibrillogenesis and to influence the diameter of collagen fibres, making them thinner and more uniform. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline is a new cosmetic active to target specifically collagen fibre organization. Skin collagen quality is addressed rather than skin collagen quantity. Tripeptide-10 Citrulline ensures uniformity in fibril diameter and increases skin suppleness because of a better cohesion of collagen fibres. Oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin, induces the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes, which results in the fonnation of cutaneous hyperpigmentation. Thus, increasing the anti­ oxidative ability of skin cells is expected to be a good strategy for skin-lightening cosmetics. Metallothionein (MT) is one of the stress-induced proteins and is known to exhibit a strong anti-oxidative property. We previously reported that a zinc(II) complex with glycine (Zn(II)(Gly)2) effectively induces MT expression in cultured human keratinocytes. To determine its potential as a new skin lightening active, we examined whether Zn(Il)(Gly)2 regulates the release of melanocyte-activating factors from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and affects melanin production in a reconstructed human epidermal equivalent. Conditioned medium from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes accelerated melanocyte proliferation to 110%, and that increase could be prevented by pre-treatment with Zn(IIXG1y)2. In addition, Zn(Il)(Gly)2 significantly reduced both the production of prostaglandin E2 and proopiomelanocortin expression in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Zn(II)(Gly)2 also decreased melanin production in a reconstructed human epidermal equivalent. These results indicate that MT-induction in the epidermis effectively up-regulates tolerance against oxidative stress and inhibits the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes. Thus, Zn(II)(Gly)2 is a good candidate as a new skin-lightening active. Efficacy of oleuropein against UVB irradiation: preliminary evaluaticn P. Perugini*, M. Vettor•, C. Rona_, L. Troisi_, L. Villanova§, I. Genta•, B. Conti* and F. Pavanetto• *Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Pavia, Pavia, _Dermatological Department, IRCSS Policlinico San Matteo, Pavia, _Department of Biological Sciences and Technologies, University of Lecce, Lecce and §Lachifarma s.r.l., Zollino, Lecce, Italy Correspondence: Paola Perugini, Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Pavia, V.le A Zn(II}-glycine complex suppresses UVB-induced Taramelli 12, 27100 Pavia, Italy. Tel.: +390382987363 melanin production by stimulating metallothionein fax: +390382422975 e-mail: paola.perugini@unipv.it expression Y. Ochiai*, S. Kaburagi*, Y. Okano•, H. Masaki*, M. lchihashi_, Y. Funasaka_ and H. Sakurai§ *Cosmos Technical Center Co., Ltd, 3-24-3 Hasune, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo I 74-0046, _Sun Clinic, Sun Care Institute, 3-3-18 Dojima, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0003, _Division of Dermatology, Department of Clinical Molecular Medicine, Kobe University Graduate School of Medicine, 7-5-1 Kusunoki-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe 650-0017 and §Department of Analytical and Bioinorganic Chemistry, Kyoto Pharmaceutical University, Nakauchi­ cho 5, Misasagi, Yamashina-ku, Kyoto 607-8414, Japan Correspondence: Hitoshi Masaki, Cosmos Technical Center Co., Ltd, 3-24-3 Hasune, ltabashi-Ku, Tokyo 174-0046, Japan. Tel.: +81 3 3966 7755 fax: +81 3 3966 7307 e-mail: masaki@ns-cosmos.co.jp Presented at the 7th International Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ISCD), Rome, 4-6 November 2004, Italy. Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim of this work was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of oleuropein against UVB-induced erythema. To this end, an emulsion and an emulgel containing oleuropein were prepared, applied and evaluated on healthy volunteers who had undergone UVB irradiation to investigate its protective and/or lenitive activity. Protective effect was assayed by application of topical preparations before irradiation and lenitive effect was evaluated after erythema induction.

ABSTRACTS 335 Vitamin E was used as the reference compound. Our study was carried out by using noninvasive techniques to assess specific skin parameters: barrier function, skin colour and microcirculation. Results clearly showed that oleuropein fonnulations highlighted lenitive efficacy by reducing erythema, transepidennal water loss and blood flow of about 22%, 35% and 30% respectively. The study allowed us to point out the lenitive property of oleuropein, opening the way to further trials to deepen our specific knowledge about this natural molecule, which could be used in association with other active ingredients in osmetics to repair UV damages. Green procedure for the preparation of scented alcohols from carbonyl compowids Carla Villa, Beatrice Trucchi, Raffaella Gambaro and Sara Baldassari Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche dell'Universita', Genova, Italy Correspondence: Carla Villa, Dipartimento di Scienze Fannaceutiche dell 'Universita', Viale Benedetto XV, 3 - 16132 Genova, Italy. Tel.: +390103538377 fax: +390103538358 e-mail: carlavi1la@unige.it Several alcohols - interesting as cosmetic fragrances whose main preparative route on an industrial scale or in the research laboratory is the reduction of the corresponding carbonyl compound - were obtained by a solvent-free methodology in a green chemistry context. The process involves the simple mixing of the carbonyl compound with sodium borohydride dispersed in wet alumina in the solid state the conversions of the carbonyl compounds were obtained in good yields within short reaction times, without energy consumption. The following carbinols were studied: octan-3-ol, 2-cineolylols (endo-exo mixture), a­ ionol, 4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 1-phenylethanol, transcinnamyl alcohol, p-anisyl alcohol, 4-phenyl-3-buten- 2-ol. Effects of aloesin on melanogenesis in pigmented skin equivalents Z. Wang*, X. Li_, Z. Yang*, X. He_, J. Tu* and T. Zhang* *Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Plastic Surgery, Stomatological Hospital, Xi'an Jiao Tong University, 98 Xiwu Road Xi'an, Shaanxi, _Department ofDennatology, the Second Hospital, Xi'an Jiaotong University Key and Laboratory of Gene and Environment of Ministry of Education, 157 Xiwu Road, Xi'an, Shaanxi 710004, and _Department of Orthopaedics, the Second Hospital, Xi'an Jiaotong University, 157 Xiwu Road, Xi'an, Shaanxi 710004, China Correspondence: Zhuangqun Yang, Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Plastic Surgery, Stomatologica\ Hospital, Xi'an Jiao Tong University, 98 Xiwu Road Xi'an, Shaanxi, China. Tel.: 086 029 87256632 fax: 086 029 87273400 e-mail: yzhqun@mail.xjtu.edu.cn Reconstituted 3-dimensional human skin equivalents in vitro are gaining popularity for studies of skin metabolism and depigmenting agents because they exhibit orphological and growth characteristics similar to human skin. The effects of aloesin on melanogenesis, however, have never been examined with the pigmented skin equivalent. The purpose of the study was to construct the skin equivalent and observe the effects of aloesin on melanogenesis in the model. We constructed an in vitro pigmented skin equivalent and examined the general structure and condition of the pigmented skin equivalent with H&E staining and Fontana Masson staining. Then, we examined the effects of aloes in on tyrosinase activity and fonnation of melanin in the model. Such a pigmented skin model demonstrated morphology similar to that seen in nonnal skin and can be used to assess the regulation of pigmentation by melanogenic compounds. The results suggested that aloesin had direct inhibitory effects on melanogenesis and showed dose-dependent reductions in tyrosinase activity (P 0.05) and melanin content (P 0.05). In conclusion, our study indicated that skin equivalents provided a convenient and costeffective alternative to animal testing for evaluating the regulation of pigmentation. Aloesin showed promise as a pigmentation­ altering agent for cosmetic or therapeutic applications. Analysis of fluoride in toothpastes on the Belgian Market M. Borremans*, J. Van Loco*, P. Van Den Meerssche_, J. Meunier_, E.Vrindts_ and L. Goeyens* *Scientific Institute of Public Health, Brussels and _Federal Public Service of Public Health Food Chain Safety and Environment, Brussels, Belgium Correspondence: Magda Borremans, Scientific Institute of Public Health, Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, B-1050 Brussels, Belgium. Tel.: +32 2 642 5168 fax: +32 2 642 5327 e-mail: magda.borremans(@iph.fgov.be We developed a method for the quantitative detennination of sodium fluoride (NaF), sodium monofluorophosJfiate (SMFP) and amine fluoride (AmF) in toothpastes on the Belgian market. Samples were suspended in water and the determination was made using anion chromatography with conductivity detection after chemical suppression. The described ion chromatographic method is an easy and reliable isocratic high-performance liquid chromatography method for the detennination of total soluble fluoride content in toothpastes. The analytical repeatability and reproducibility, the matrix effects and the method's decision limit of three different toothpastes containing NaF, SMFP and AmF at a concentration close to the permitted one of 0.15 g % total F are determined. All the samples analysed are in conformity with the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EC none exceeds the limit of 0.15 g %. The 2007 International Journal of Cosmetic Science Publication Prize The IJCS Publication Prize was instituted in 1969. It is awarded for the best scientific paper to be submitted for publication in the Society's journal in each calendar year. Until 1978, this applied to those published in the British editions of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Since 1979, it applies to those appearing in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The prize attracts an honorarium of £500. For the year 2007 the teams of Dr Pavicic at the Department ofDennatology and Allergology, Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich, Germany and Dr Farwick at Evonik, Essen, Gennany won the award for their paper.