2008 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 343 6. The use of real-time analysis, allowing to constantly optimize reactions and reduce waste and purification steps MORE SAFETY AND LESS POLLUTION: 7. by limiting waste production 8. by facilitating the production of non persistent products 9. by creating less harmful syntheses processes 10. by creating safer but as effective products (by making them less bioavailable for example, or by neutralizing the toxic function) 11. by using green reagents 12. by limiting the risks of accidents (utilizing "just in time" methods for example, which produce dangerous substances just upstream their use) Advantages of Green Chemistry Green Chemistry has many positive impacts on health, the environment, and on working conditions. The economic and technical advantages are evident, although they do require investment. It is extremely likely that out of necessity, green chemistry will become the standard in the future. The potential of innovation is enormous, and innovation is one of main engines of the current economy. Green Chemistry tends to facilitate savings on many levels, including optimization of yields, energy savings, waste treatment reduction and reduced security systems costs. The investment in Green Chemistry is of a long-term nature, but it remains the best strategy available to us. Renewable Vegetable Raw Material sources offer numerous possibilities and advantages: They are biodegradable and renewable, They maintain the balance of greenhouse gases, They are at the source of many innovations: surfactants, solvents, emulsifiers and cosmetic actives Natural products address current consumer demand. Green Chemistry has undeniable benefits, and wilt be central in future developments, but its evolution has been very slow. Global awareness has been quite recent: In 1972, the Summit of United Nations on Man and the Environment in Stockholm marks the start of awareness, at a global level, of the impact of human activities on the environment. In 1987, after an international meeting, the World Commission on the Environment and the Bruntland Commission define the concept of sustainable development The "Pollution Prevention Act" in the USA, launched in 1990, places the prevention of pollution in the foreground and leads to the definition of green chemistry by the US Environmental Protection Agency. More To Be Done The development of these concepts requires effort at every level: Education of future chemists Investment in research Promotion of Green Chemistry Recognition of the relevance and importance of this approach Much research remains to be done for Green Chemistry to reach the levels of profitability and efficiency of conventional chemistry. At present, costs are often higher and yields lower because of the variability in the quality ofnatural raw materials. Natural raw materials are subject to growing conditions such as drought, etc. However, if we consider truly all the costs of the production and use cycle, including environmental and physiological costs on our society, we believe that Green Chemistry is indeed the solution for the future.

344 Introduction: JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE HGREEN,, FORMULATING STRATEGIES Ulrich Issberner, MD Cognis Corporation The global trend for sustainable and green products has had an impact on the formulator's world in the Personal Care industry like no other trend before. It has dramatically changed the way a formulator views raw materials, production process and packaging. Studies have documented the increasing importance of this trend on the Personal Care Industry. In the past, consumers were willing to compromise on product performance in exchange for products which were perceived as "green." Today's consumer demands high performance for products with ingredients derived from renewable, vegetable sources. In addition, other considerations are capturing the consumers' attention e.g. sustainable sourcing, minimizing of environmental impact, social aspects, etc. There has been a permanent paradigm shift in the industry-there's no turning back. How do formulators meet these complicated demands from the customer, while retaining high performance at reasonable costs? Strategies which will be discussed include the sourcing of raw materials and options for energy­ reduced manufacturing-achieving a holistic approach to formulating green. Discussion: The Personal Care Market has always been highly driven by innovation-leveraging discoveries in various sciences, e.g. chemistry, dermatology, microbiology or biochemistry. In the past, the main challenge a formulator faced was maximizing product performance, providing marketing claims, staying within budget limitations and abiding regulations set by authorities. Today, formulators must be cognizant of the consumer's awareness of sustainability issues. Today's consumer is highly educated by modern technology and connected to others via the Internet. Consumers demand answers to actual questions: Is my product sustainably sourced? Does my product have a minimal environmental impact? What effect does my product/company have on social issues? How "green" is my product? What good can I do for myself and the environment? The principles of green chemistry can be applied to each of the main phases of the chemical and product life cycle: Design, Manufacture, Use, and End-of-life. The presentation will focus on the first 2 phases of the cycle. Designing a "green" product starts with selecting the raw materials. The ingredient selection has to consider the nature of the product itself, whether it is an organic or inorganic material and its environmental impact. In addition, the specific sourcing of a raw material has become a very important part of the green marketing story. Does it consider biodiversity or ethical principles? Finally, the process of producing the raw material has to be examined. Green solutions for high performance cosmetic products are under discovery right now. However, some applications still have performance limitations. Some examples of "green" formula prototypes will be shown, together with data comparing these prototypes with current, "green" benchmarks.