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J. Cosmet. Sci., 75.5, 447–482 (September/October 2024)
Delivering Sustainable Solutions to Improve Wellbeing
ALBERT SOLEY, M. CARMEN LIDÓN-MOYA, CAROLE LEPILLEUR,
DENISE WADE RAFFERTY, MATHILDE ALLEGRE AND SYLESH VENKATARAMAN
Lipotec SAU Isaac Peral 17 (Pol. Industrial Camí Ral), Barcelona, Spain (A.S., M.C.L.-M.)
Lubrizol, Brecksville, Ohio, USA (C.L., D.W.R.)
Lubrizol France, Rouen, France (M.A.)
Lipotec USA, Inc., Lewisville, Texas, USA (S.V.)
Accepted for publication September 23, 2024.
Synopsis
Sustainable solutions are increasingly in demand in the beauty industry, and one of the biggest challenges in
delivering sustainable materials is ensuring the materials maintain the required performance. In this article,
several new technologies are presented that meet sustainable solutions requirements while also providing
excellent performance. These technologies include three novel active ingredients (Thermal Waters biotech
ingredient, tetrapeptide-1, and Stevia rebaudiana extract) and two novel rheology modifiers (starch acetate/
adipate and Caesalpinia spinosa or tara gum). The sustainability of these ingredients is discussed around
four pillars, including renewable carbon and biodegradability, carbon emission reduction, eco-designed/
clean processes, and sustainable sourcing. The performance of these ingredients in beauty applications is
demonstrated using relevant evaluation methods.
INTRODUCTION
Formulating new beauty products has never been more challenging. Stringent regulatory
requirements, increasing customer expectations for performance, and a growing trend
toward sustainable products make designing new molecules difficult. While a focus on
performance and efficacy is critical for success, there is an increased obligation to responsibly
develop and deploy ingredients with low environmental impact. From conception to the
generation of raw materials, their stepwise conversion into efficacious products and their
eventual post-use disposal impact the overall environmental footprint. Raw material
sustainability has been a primary focus when discussing product development. Sustainable
solutions can be achieved based on four pillars:
• Renewable carbon and biodegradability.
• Carbon emission reduction (i.e., designing ingredients with lower carbon footprint).
• Eco-designed/clean processes such as biotechnology or green chemistry.
• Sustainable sourcing (i.e., making sure nature-based feedstocks do not negatively impact
the environment or people).