474 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
concentration of the polymer from 1.5 wt% to 3.5 wt% improves the formulation viscosity
and yield value while preserving clarity (Figure 23).
Performance of C spinosa gum (tara). Because of its efficient thickening and film-forming
properties, tara can provide multifunctional benefits in many hair care formulations like
conditioners, hair treatments, or styling gels (translucent to opaque), which are explored in
the following paragraphs.
Figure 21. (A) Viscosity, yield value and (B) turbidity properties within a sulfated chassis: 11.2 wt%
sodium laureth sulfate, 2.3 wt% cocamidopropyl betaine at pH 6.5. *Brookfield® (Brookfield Engineering
Laboratories, Inc., Middleboro, MA, USA) viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s).
475 DELIVERING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS TO IMPROVE WELLBEING
The properties of tara mucilage are shown in Figure 24. Increasing the amount of tara
and using a hot hydration process can lead to high mucilage viscosity. Tara forms viscous
solutions through random coil hyperentanglement where the random coils can interact with
each other via inter- and intramolecular associations of polymer coils through H-bonding
interactions of the mannose units.26 Although c* (critical entanglement concentration)
is formulation-dependent, increasing the concentration of tara above c* leads to a rapid
Figure 22. (A) Viscosity and (B) yield value properties within a sulfated chassis: 11.2 wt% sodium laureth
sulfate, 2.3 wt% cocamidopropyl betaine at pH 6.5. *Brookfield® (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc.,
Middleboro, MA, USA) viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s).
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