490 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
In 2004, Darbre et al. reported that parabens were found in human breast tumors.20 The
implication was that parabens were linked with cancer. These workers indicated that MP
may have been at higher levels than other paraben esters due to its more widespread use
in consumer products or due to its greater ability to be absorbed and/or resist hydrolysis
in body tissues. Unfortunately, no normal tissues were sampled in the subjects tested to
provide reference levels of parabens present in noncancerous tissues.14
The estrogenic activity of MP was already known because Nakagawa and Maldeus had
reported that parabens had estrogenic activity in rat hepatocytes in 1998.21 These workers
found that butylparaben (BP) had the most estrogenic activity of the paraben esters tested.
BP was significantly more estrogenic than MP. Nevertheless, the publication by Darbre and
coworkers shocked the cosmetic industry because it raised a possible link between parabens
and cancer. This was unsettling because parabens had been in use for over 50 years and
were the most used preservative in the cosmetic industry.14
An editorial by Harvey and Everett provided excellent perspective on the report by Darbre
and coworkers, because it explained that parabens have inherent estrogenic activity, and
that estrogen is a major factor in the growth and development of human breast cancer.22
They noted that long-term exposures due to the use of products containing parabens may
contribute to the bioburden of estrogenic materials in the body. Even though the cause-
and-effect relationship between parabens and breast cancer was not established, Harvey and
Everett concluded that unlike environmental exposures that may not be avoidable, individual
use of consumer products with parabens is preventable, and that the removal of estrogenic
formula components would eliminate one potential source of estrogenic materials. Goon,
Leow, and Goh observed that this was unfortunate because perception often becomes reality
to consumers.23 Many companies reacted to this concern by replacing parabens in products
with other preservatives and with multifunctional ingredients that have antimicrobial
activity to meet the perceived consumer demand for products that are safe.
In 2020, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety
reported on the safety of 21 parabens as preservatives in cosmetic products. It was
concluded that “20 of the 21 parabens included in this report are safe in cosmetics in
the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when
the sum of the total parabens in any given formulation does not exceed 0.8%.”24 They
reported that the available data are insufficient to support a conclusion of safety for BP
in cosmetics.24 Currently, the position of the FDA is that “At this time, we do not have
information showing that parabens as they are used in cosmetics have an effect on human
health.”25 Although MP and PP continue to be popular preservatives in cosmetics, many
manufacturers are formulating products without parabens to avoid consumer perception
that parabens in cosmetics are unsafe.
In 2016, The US FDA issued a final rule establishing that OTC consumer antiseptic wash
products, such as deodorant or medicated soaps, containing certain active ingredients (e.g.,
Triclosan, Triclocarban, etc.) could no longer be marketed.26
Hand and bodywash manufacturers were no longer able to sell antibacterial soap and
washes with antibacterial active ingredients because they did not demonstrate that the
active ingredients were both safe for long-term daily use and more effective than plain soap
and water in preventing illness and the spread of certain infections. Thus, manufacturers
failed to provide data, or the information submitted was not sufficient for the FDA to
determine that these active ingredients are generally recognized as safe and effective.
491 Evolution and Challenges of Sustainability
In recent years, there has been a trend by many manufacturers to introduce products into
international markets. The US has fewer regulations for the use of preservatives in finished
consumer products than many other countries however, the FDA does require that
manufacturers substantiate that cosmetic products are safe, and that drug products are safe and
effective. The European Union, Health Canada, and Japan’s Ministry of Health and Welfare
have published directives/lists of preservatives, with allowed concentrations and restrictions
with respect to use on children, oral use, and leave-on or rinse-off products. Websites for the
European Union (Annex V), Health Canada, and Japan Ministry of Health provide up-to-date
information on levels of preservatives that may be used and restrictions that may apply to specific
product categories. These resources may be used to develop a list of “global preservatives” and
the allowed concentrations that may be used in products marketed internationally.14
Additional information on historical developments in product preservation and cosmetic
microbiology may be found in publications by Curry,27 Garrett and Orth,3 and Orth11 for
the United States, by Russell28 for the United Kingdom, and by Fukubayashi29 for Japan.
CHANGING USE OF PRESERVATIVES IN COSMETICS
The evolution of cosmetic preservation over the past 75 years has involved transitioning
from traditional preservative systems containing combinations of preservatives in aqueous
formulas to application of the principles of preservation to use ingredients that may replace
some or all the traditional preservatives in many formulas. Preservative-free products are
consumer and environmentally friendly because they have no issues due to preservatives
such as irritation, sensitization, endocrine modulation, cross-resistance with antibiotics,
carcinogenicity, and effects on the environment. Also, preservative-free products have no
restrictions or regulatory requirements for preservatives that limit marketing in any country.
Over the past several decades, ingredient suppliers have worked with manufacturers to
develop reduced preservative or preservative-free formulations by providing multifunctional
ingredients—chemicals that are not classified as preservatives, but which have antimicrobial
action that adds to the preservative system. Such multifunctional ingredients include glyceryl
monoesters (e.g., glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprylate, and glyceryl caprylate)
that aid emulsification, humectants (e.g., ethylhexylglycerin and capryl glycol) that help
moisturize skin, polyols (e.g., butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol,
and sorbitol) that moisturize skin and lower the water activity (a
w ),botanicals (e.g., willow
bark extract, turmeric, and sage), phenolic antioxidants that stabilize formulas by scavenging
free radicals, aroma chemicals (e.g., essential oils and phenoxyethanol) that contribute to the
fragrance, ferments (e.g., Lactobacillus ferments) and enzymes. Multifunctional ingredients
and the physicochemical composition of the formula comprise the “invisible preservative
system” that can reduce preservative requirements in conventional formulations that
contain preservatives, or that may be able to replace preservatives in preservative-free (self-
preserving) formulations.30 Formulation of preservative-free products may be accomplished
with an understanding of the principles of preservation.
PRINCIPLES OF PRESERVATION
Bacteria, yeasts, and molds are ubiquitous in nature, and they will grow in any environment
that provides sufficient moisture, appropriate nutrients, and suitable conditions for growth.
Previous Page Next Page