403 The Human Stratum Corneum
(32) Imokawa G, Akasaki S, Minematsu Y, Kawai M. Importance of intercellular lipids in water-retention
properties of the stratum corneum: induction and recovery study of surfactant dry skin. Arch Dermatol
Res. 1989 281(1):45–51. doi:10.1007/BF00424272
(33) Imokawa G. Surfactant-Induced Depletion of Ceramides and Other Intercellular Lipids: implication
for the Mechanism Leading to Dehydration of the Stratum corneum. Exog Dermatol. 2004 3(2):81–98.
doi:10.1159/000086158
(34) Lips A, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Vethamuthu M, et al. Role of surfactant micelle charge in protein
denaturation and surfactant induced skin irritation. In: Rhein LD, Schlossman M, O’Lenick A,
Somasundaran P, eds. Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics. 3rd ed. CRC Press
2006:177–187.
(35) Dillarstone A, Paye M. Antagonism in concentrated surfactant systems. Contact Dermatitis. 1993 28(3):198.
doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.1993.tb03398.x
(36) Endo K, Ozawa T, Masui T, et al. Advantage of sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether carboxylate as a mild
cleansing agent. Part 2: Effects on skin functions and conditions. J Surfact &Detergents. 2018 21(6):777–788.
doi:10.1002/jsde.12177
(37) Piérard GE, Goffin V, Piérard-Franchimont C. Corneosurfametry: a predictive assessment of the interaction
of personal-care cleansing products with human stratum corneum. Dermatology. 1994 189(2):152–156.
doi:10.1159/000246820
(38) Liu M, Mollica L, Regan J, et al. Modified Corneosurfametry as a new accelerated high-throughput ex
vivo methodology for predicting cleanser effects towards human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 38(2):178–
186. doi:10.1111/ics.12273
(39) Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Subramanyan K, Nole G. Moisturizing cleansers. In: Marie L, Howard M,
eds. Dry Skin and Moisturizers. 2nd ed. Taylor &Francis Group 2005:405–428.
(40) Purohit P, Chandar P, Vilinska A, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Somasundaran P. Effect of mixed
surfactants on stratum corneum: a drying stress and Raman spectroscopy study. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2014 36(4):379–385. doi:10.1111/ics.12139
(41) German GK, Pashkovski E, Dufresne ER. Surfactant treatments influence drying mechanics in human
stratum corneum. J Biomech. 2013 46(13):2145–2151. doi:10.1016/j.jbiomech.2013.07.003
(42) Liu X, German GK. Measuring and modeling contractile drying in human stratum corneum. J Vis Exp.
2017 (121):e55336, 1–6. doi:10.3791/55336
(43) Bernhofer LP, Barkovic S, Appa Y, Martin KM. IL-1alpha and IL-1ra secretion from epidermal
equivalents and the prediction of the irritation potential of mild soap and surfactant-based consumer
products. Toxicol In Vitro. 1999 13(2):231–239. doi:10.1016/s0887-2333(98)00088-5.
(44) Perkins MA, Osborne R, Rana FR, A, Ghassemi, Robinson MK. Comparison of in-vitro and in-vivo
human response to consumer products and ingredients with a range of irritation potential, Tox. Sciences.
1999 48:218–229.
(45) Walters RM, Gandolfi L, Mack MC, et al. In vitro assessment of skin irritation potential of surfactant-
based formulations by using a 3-D skin reconstructed tissue model and cytokine response. Altern Lab
Anim. 2016 44(6):523–532. doi:10.1177/026119291604400611.
(46) Morris SAV, Thompson RT, Glenn RW, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Kasting GB. Mechanisms of anionic
surfactant penetration into human skin: investigating monomer, micelle and submicellar aggregate
penetration theories. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 41(1):55–66. doi:10.1111/ics.12511
(47) Morris SAV, Kasting GB, Ananthapadmanabhan KP. Surfactant equilibria and its impact on penetration
into stratum corneum. Curr Opin Colloid Interface Sci. 2022 59:101579. doi:10.1016/j.cocis.2022.101579
(48) de la Maza A, Coderch L, Lopez O, Baucells J, Parra JL. Permeability changes caused by surfactants
in liposomes that model the stratum corneum lipid composition. J Am Oil Chem Soc. 1997 74(1):1–8.
doi:10.1007/s11746-997-0111-3
(49) Froebe CL, Simion FA, Rhein LD, Cagan RH, Kligman A. Stratum corneum lipid removal by surfactants:
relation to in vivo irritation. Dermatologica. 1990 181(4):277–283. doi:10.1159/000247822
(32) Imokawa G, Akasaki S, Minematsu Y, Kawai M. Importance of intercellular lipids in water-retention
properties of the stratum corneum: induction and recovery study of surfactant dry skin. Arch Dermatol
Res. 1989 281(1):45–51. doi:10.1007/BF00424272
(33) Imokawa G. Surfactant-Induced Depletion of Ceramides and Other Intercellular Lipids: implication
for the Mechanism Leading to Dehydration of the Stratum corneum. Exog Dermatol. 2004 3(2):81–98.
doi:10.1159/000086158
(34) Lips A, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Vethamuthu M, et al. Role of surfactant micelle charge in protein
denaturation and surfactant induced skin irritation. In: Rhein LD, Schlossman M, O’Lenick A,
Somasundaran P, eds. Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics. 3rd ed. CRC Press
2006:177–187.
(35) Dillarstone A, Paye M. Antagonism in concentrated surfactant systems. Contact Dermatitis. 1993 28(3):198.
doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.1993.tb03398.x
(36) Endo K, Ozawa T, Masui T, et al. Advantage of sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether carboxylate as a mild
cleansing agent. Part 2: Effects on skin functions and conditions. J Surfact &Detergents. 2018 21(6):777–788.
doi:10.1002/jsde.12177
(37) Piérard GE, Goffin V, Piérard-Franchimont C. Corneosurfametry: a predictive assessment of the interaction
of personal-care cleansing products with human stratum corneum. Dermatology. 1994 189(2):152–156.
doi:10.1159/000246820
(38) Liu M, Mollica L, Regan J, et al. Modified Corneosurfametry as a new accelerated high-throughput ex
vivo methodology for predicting cleanser effects towards human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 38(2):178–
186. doi:10.1111/ics.12273
(39) Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Subramanyan K, Nole G. Moisturizing cleansers. In: Marie L, Howard M,
eds. Dry Skin and Moisturizers. 2nd ed. Taylor &Francis Group 2005:405–428.
(40) Purohit P, Chandar P, Vilinska A, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Somasundaran P. Effect of mixed
surfactants on stratum corneum: a drying stress and Raman spectroscopy study. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2014 36(4):379–385. doi:10.1111/ics.12139
(41) German GK, Pashkovski E, Dufresne ER. Surfactant treatments influence drying mechanics in human
stratum corneum. J Biomech. 2013 46(13):2145–2151. doi:10.1016/j.jbiomech.2013.07.003
(42) Liu X, German GK. Measuring and modeling contractile drying in human stratum corneum. J Vis Exp.
2017 (121):e55336, 1–6. doi:10.3791/55336
(43) Bernhofer LP, Barkovic S, Appa Y, Martin KM. IL-1alpha and IL-1ra secretion from epidermal
equivalents and the prediction of the irritation potential of mild soap and surfactant-based consumer
products. Toxicol In Vitro. 1999 13(2):231–239. doi:10.1016/s0887-2333(98)00088-5.
(44) Perkins MA, Osborne R, Rana FR, A, Ghassemi, Robinson MK. Comparison of in-vitro and in-vivo
human response to consumer products and ingredients with a range of irritation potential, Tox. Sciences.
1999 48:218–229.
(45) Walters RM, Gandolfi L, Mack MC, et al. In vitro assessment of skin irritation potential of surfactant-
based formulations by using a 3-D skin reconstructed tissue model and cytokine response. Altern Lab
Anim. 2016 44(6):523–532. doi:10.1177/026119291604400611.
(46) Morris SAV, Thompson RT, Glenn RW, Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Kasting GB. Mechanisms of anionic
surfactant penetration into human skin: investigating monomer, micelle and submicellar aggregate
penetration theories. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 41(1):55–66. doi:10.1111/ics.12511
(47) Morris SAV, Kasting GB, Ananthapadmanabhan KP. Surfactant equilibria and its impact on penetration
into stratum corneum. Curr Opin Colloid Interface Sci. 2022 59:101579. doi:10.1016/j.cocis.2022.101579
(48) de la Maza A, Coderch L, Lopez O, Baucells J, Parra JL. Permeability changes caused by surfactants
in liposomes that model the stratum corneum lipid composition. J Am Oil Chem Soc. 1997 74(1):1–8.
doi:10.1007/s11746-997-0111-3
(49) Froebe CL, Simion FA, Rhein LD, Cagan RH, Kligman A. Stratum corneum lipid removal by surfactants:
relation to in vivo irritation. Dermatologica. 1990 181(4):277–283. doi:10.1159/000247822























































































































































































































