405 The Human Stratum Corneum
(71) Das R, Mallik N, Adhikari A, Bhattarai A. A comprehensive review on the creation, description, and
utilization of surfactants containing multiple hydroxyl groups. Int J Polym Sci. 2024 2024(1):Article ID
6120535. doi:10.1155/2024/6120535
(72) Bárány E, Lindberg M, Lodén M. Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers. Int J
Pharm. 2000 195(1-2):189–195. doi:10.1016/s0378-5173(99)00388-9
(73) Lémery E, Briançon S, Chevalier Y, et al. Skin toxicity of surfactants: Structure/toxicity relationships.
Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects. 2015 469:166–179. doi:10.1016/j.
colsurfa.2015.01.019.
(74) Trommer H, Neubert RHH. Overcoming the stratum corneum: the modulation of skin penetration. A
review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006 19(2):106–121. doi:10.1159/000091978
(75) Songkro S. An overview of skin penetration enhancers: penetration enhancing activity, skin irritation
potential and mechanism of action. Songklanakarin J Sci Technol. May-June 2009 31(3):299–321.
(76) Mitragotri S, Anissimov YG, Bunge AL, et al. Mathematical models of skin permeability: an overview.
Int J Pharm. 2011 418(1):115–129. doi:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.02.023
(77) Moghadam SH, Saliaj E, Wettig SD, et al. Effect of chemical permeation enhancers on stratum corneum
barrier lipid organizational structure and interferon alpha permeability. Mol Pharm. 2013 10(6):2248–
2260. doi:10.1021/mp300441c
(78) Bos JD, Meinardi MM. The 500 dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs.
Exp Dermatol. 2000 9(3):165–169. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0625.2000.009003165.x
(79) Williams AC, Barry BW. Penetration enhancers. Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2012 64:128–137. doi:10.1016/j.
addr.2012.09.032
(80) Moghadam SH, Saliaj E, Wettig SD, et al. Effect of chemical permeation enhancers on stratum corneum
barrier lipid organizational structure and interferon alpha permeability. Mol Pharm. 2013 10(6):2248–
2260. doi:10.1021/mp300441c
(80a) Ibid. Ref 77.
(81) Pham QD, Björklund S, Engblom J, Topgaard D, Sparr E. Chemical penetration enhancers in stratum
corneum—relation between molecular effects and barrier function. J Control Release. 2016 232:175–187.
doi:10.1016/j.jconrel.2016.04.030
(82) Spada F, Barnes TM, Greive KA. Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to
mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 11:491–497.
doi:10.2147/CCID.S177697
(83) Nisbet SJ, Dykes P, Snatchfold J. Single application of lamellar moisturizers provides significantly
increased hydration of the stratum corneum for up to 24 hours in a randomized trial. J Cosmet Dermatol.
2020 19(11):3091–3095. doi:10.1111/jocd.13361
(84) Hauser M. Cosmetic Oils in comparison: penetration and occlusion of paraffin oil and vegetable oils.
COSSMA(1-2)/y2012:26–32.
(85) Rawlings AV, Lombard KJ. A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil. Int J Cosmet Sci.
2012 34(6):511–518. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00752.x
(86) Bosko CA, Adamus J, Bajor JS. The safety and efficacy of petrolatum. J Cosmet Sci. May/June 2022. ISSN
1525-7886 73:178-189.
(87) Ghadially R, Halkier-Sorensen L, Elias PM. Effects of petrolatum on stratum corneum structure and
function. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1992 26(3 Pt 2):387–396. doi:10.1016/0190-9622(92)70060-s
(88) Chen X-W, Sun S-D, Yang G-L, Ma C-G. Engineering phytosterol-based oleogels for potential application
as sustainable petrolatum replacement. RSC Adv. 2019 10(1):244–252. doi:10.1039/c9ra06950j
(89) Barnes TM, Mijaljica D, Townley JP, Spada F, Harrison IP. Vehicles for drug delivery and cosmetic
moisturizers: Review and Comparison [review]. Pharmaceutics. 2021 13(12):2012. doi:10.3390/pharma​
ceutics​13122012
(90) Stortz TA, Marangoni AG. The replacement for petrolatum: thixotropic ethylcellulose oleogels in
triglyceride oils. Green Chem. 2014 16(6):3064–3070. doi:10.1039/C4GC00052H

406 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
(91) Rawlings AV, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Chandar P, Scott IR, Chap 13 Leyden J, Rawlings AV, eds.
Humectants in Skin Moisturization. 1st ed. Vol 2002 2002:245–266.
(92) Juncan AM, Moisă DG, Santini A, et al. Advantages of hyaluronic acid and its combination with other
bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021 26(15):4429. doi:10.3390/molecules26154429
(93) Celleno L. Topical urea in skincare: a review. Dermatol Ther. 2018 31(6):e12690. doi:10.1111/dth.12690
(94) Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B. Moisturizer technology versus clinical performance.
Dermatol Ther. 2004 17(suppl 1):49–56. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1006.x
(95) Berkey C, Kanno D, Mehling A, et al. Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the
biomechanical function of human stratum corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 42(6):605–614. doi:10.1111/
ics.12656
(96) Pennick G, Harrison S, Jones D, Rawlings AV. Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on improvement
in stratum corneum water permeability barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion stress test.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 32(4):304–312. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00604.x
(97) Levi K, Weber RJ, Do JQ, Dauskardt RH. Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum
corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010 32(4):276–293. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00557.x
(98) Harding CR, Watkinson A, Rawlings AV, Scott IR. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int
J Cosmet Sci. 2000 22(1):21–52. doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00001.x
(99) Rawlings AV, Chapt 7. The stratum corneum and aging. In: Farage MA, Miller KW, Maibach HI, eds.
Aging of Skin. Springer-Verlag 2010:56–75. doi:10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_7
(100) Janssens M, van Smeden J, Gooris GS, et al. Lamellar lipid organization and ceramide composition in the
stratum corneum of patients with atopic eczema. J Invest Dermatol. 2011 131(10):2136–2138. doi:10.1038/
jid.2011.175
(101) Ibid Ref. 56.
(102) Thakoersing VS, van Smeden J, Boiten WA, et al. Modulation of stratum corneum lipid composition and
organization of human skin equivalents by specific medium supplements. Exp Dermatol. 2015 24(9):669–
674. doi:10.1111/exd.12740
(103) Berkers T, Visscher D, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA. Topically applied ceramides interact with the
stratum corneum lipid matrix in compromised ex vivo skin. Pharm Res. 2018 35(3):48. doi:10.1007/
s11095-017-2288-y
(104) SK-Influx V A Skin-Identical Lipid Concentrate for Enhanced Skin Moisturization and protectionEvonik
Goldschmidt Technical Data Sheet, D 11/07.
(105) Yarova G, Lathrop WF, Mayes AE, et al. In vivo elongation of topically applied fatty acids from a range
of different topical skincare formulations. J Cosmet Sci. May/June 2023 74(3):188–199.
(106) Zhang Q, Flach CR, Mendelsohn R, et al. Topically applied ceramide accumulates in skin glyphs. Clin
Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 8:329–337. doi:10.2147/CCID.S83857
(107) Sahle FF, Wohlrab J, Neubert RHH. Controlled penetration of ceramides into and across the stratum
corneum using various types of microemulsions and formulation associated toxicity studies. Eur J Pharm
Biopharm. 2014 86(2):244–250. doi:10.1016/j.ejpb.2013.07.011
(108) Hubbard BA, Unger JG, Rohrich RJ. Reversal of skin aging with topical retinoids. Plast Reconstr Surg.
2014 133(4):481e–490e. doi:10.1097/PRS.0000000000000043
(109) Green BA, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. Clin Dermatol.
2009 27(5):495–501. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.06.023
(110) Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, et al. Mechanistic insights into the multiple functions of niacinamide:
therapeutic implications and cosmeceutical applications in functional skincare products. Antioxidants
(Basel). 2024 13(4):425. doi:10.3390/antiox13040425
(111) Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017 9(8):866.
doi:10.3390/nu9080866
(112) Park SJ. A comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol for the treatment of photoaging. J Integr Dermatol.
2022:1–22.