404 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE CONCLUSIONS A new parameter-Hair Humidity Resistance Factor (H2RF) has been defined and can be determined by measuring changes in the remaining percent of hair elasticity at two levels of RH (50% and 80%) at different equilibrium time. H2RF can be used as indicators of hair anti-frizz behavior as well as hair moistur- ization degree. Addition of 1 % active Polyquaternium-70 into SH-1 shampoo improved its hair anti-frizz performance and demonstrated the best performance on hair humidity resistance among all tested shampoo samples An Image Analysis method was used to evaluate anti-frizz performance of hair care products. The improvement in hair anti-frizz performance by addition of 1 % active Polyquaternium-70 into SH-1 shampoo system has been validated by image Analysis method. ACKNOWLEDGMENT The author thanks the application group of Croda Inc. for preparations of shampoo samples.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 405-411 CTuly/August 2007) New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection ALISA RODDICK-LANZILOTTA, ROB KELLY, SONYA SCOTT, and SURINDER CHAHAL, Canesis Network Ltd, Private Bag 4749, Christchurch, New Zealand (A.R.-L., S.S.), Keratec Limited, Springs Road, Lincoln, Canterbury, New Zealand (R.K.), and Croda Chemicals Europe, Cowick Hall, Snaith Goole, East Yorkshire DN14 9AA, U.K. (S.C.). Synopsis Hair is primarily composed of keratin proteins and it is well established that peptides and proteins bestow desirable effects on the hair, for example improving moisturization and softness. In the present work we describe how keratin actives with unique properties convey a range of beneficial properties to a variety of hair types. It has been observed that these functional keratins protect hair from damage associated with chemical treatments such as perming and relaxation, help to restore the mechanical strength of damaged fibers and decrease fading of colored hair. INTRODUCTION It is well known that proteins have beneficial effects on hair. For a long time it has been acknowledged that hydrolyzed proteins, convey desirable effects to hair care formula- tions, improving, softness, moisturization and leaving hair feeling and looking healthier. Hair is primarily composed of keratin protein, one of nature's most successful materials. Many of the commercially available keratin ingredients have been manufactured using harsh processes which destroy the natural functionality of the keratin and yield low molecular weight peptides. In order to fully capitalize on the properties of keratins, an approach which allows the natural characteristics of the materials to be maintained is needed. In this paper, we describe how a new range of "Functional Keratins," which have been created by using patented technologies, protect the hair. The origin of this protective effect is attributable to the isolation of intact protein fractions which leads to unique amino acids combina- tions and film-forming properties of the high molecular weight ( ~5 5kD) water soluble portion. In addition, they possess a unique s-sulpho functionality, which conveys anti- oxidant properties and allows them to react with hair to permanently attach. This is particularly relevant when hair is damaged and in the presence of chemicals used during typical chemical treatments, such as perming and relaxation. In previous reported studies, these new actives have been shown to convey anti-aging properties to hair by protecting the fiber cortex and surface from damage arising from sunlight and urban pollution (1-3). Here we describe how these actives convey other 405
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