Hair and amino acids: The interactions and the effects

Eiko Oshimura; Hiroshi Abe; Rina Oota

356 ,I( ra � ,I( ra JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 140 Na salt ,I( 120 l a, 100 a, 80 60 PCA Citric acid Figure 12. Color retention of semi-permanent hair dye: influence of counter ion. 12.0 N=3, mean±S.D. 8.0 4.0 0.0.._____,___...___._ __._ __ ...___. _ __._ __ ..______. _ __._ _ __...___. Control Sodium PCA Sodium PCA + Arg Silicone Figure 13. The effect of PCA on color development of permanent hair dye. 12.0 8.0 4.0 0.0 -4.0 -8.0 Control Swash Sodium PCA � 12 wash N=3, mean±S.D. Sodium Silicone PCA + Arg Figure 14. The effect of PCA on wash-fastness of permanent hair dye. REFERENCES (1) K. Shimizu, Fragrance]., 56, 19-25 (1982). (2) M. Oku, H. Nishimura, and H. Kanehisa, Dissolution of proteins from hair. (I) The analysis of dissolved protein from hair,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 21(3), 198-203 (1987).

356 ,I( ea ,I( JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 140 Na salt ,I( 120 ] 100 ea 80 60 PCA Citric acid Figure 12. Color retention of semi-permanent hair dye: influence of counter ion. 12.0 8.0 4.0 0.0 Control Sodium PCA N=3, mean±S.D. Sodium PCA + Arg Silicone Figure 13. The effect of PCA on color development of permanent hair dye. 12.0 8.0 4.0 0.0 -4.0 -8.0 EEi 6 wash Control Sodium PCA � 12 wash N=3, mean±S.D. Sodium PCA + Arg Silicone Figure 14. The effect of PCA on wash-fastness of permanent hair dye. REFERENCES (l) K. Shimizu, Fragrance]., 56, 19-2 5 (1982). (2) M. Oku, H. Nishimura, and H. Kanehisa, Dissolution of proteins from hair. (I) The analysis of dissolved protein from hair,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 21(3), 198-203 (1987).

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356 ,I( ra � ,I( ra JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 140 Na salt ,I( 120 l a, 100 a, 80 60 PCA Citric acid Figure 12. Color retention of semi-permanent hair dye: influence of counter ion. 12.0 N=3, mean±S.D. 8.0 4.0 0.0.._____,___...___._ __._ __ ...___. _ __._ __ ..______. _ __._ _ __...___. Control Sodium PCA Sodium PCA + Arg Silicone Figure 13. The effect of PCA on color development of permanent hair dye. 12.0 8.0 4.0 0.0 -4.0 -8.0 Control Swash Sodium PCA � 12 wash N=3, mean±S.D. Sodium Silicone PCA + Arg Figure 14. The effect of PCA on wash-fastness of permanent hair dye. REFERENCES (1) K. Shimizu, Fragrance]., 56, 19-25 (1982). (2) M. Oku, H. Nishimura, and H. Kanehisa, Dissolution of proteins from hair. (I) The analysis of dissolved protein from hair,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 21(3), 198-203 (1987).

356 ,I( ea ,I( JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 140 Na salt ,I( 120 ] 100 ea 80 60 PCA Citric acid Figure 12. Color retention of semi-permanent hair dye: influence of counter ion. 12.0 8.0 4.0 0.0 Control Sodium PCA N=3, mean±S.D. Sodium PCA + Arg Silicone Figure 13. The effect of PCA on color development of permanent hair dye. 12.0 8.0 4.0 0.0 -4.0 -8.0 EEi 6 wash Control Sodium PCA � 12 wash N=3, mean±S.D. Sodium PCA + Arg Silicone Figure 14. The effect of PCA on wash-fastness of permanent hair dye. REFERENCES (l) K. Shimizu, Fragrance]., 56, 19-2 5 (1982). (2) M. Oku, H. Nishimura, and H. Kanehisa, Dissolution of proteins from hair. (I) The analysis of dissolved protein from hair,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 21(3), 198-203 (1987).

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354 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 4.0 N=3, mean± S.D. CD 'i:" 3.0 � ·- J!I .. CL"T 2.0 ::::, .ea cm a.- 1.0 0.0 PCA-Arg PCA-Na Figure 8. Uptake of PCA: the effect of counter ion. PCA treatment: 5 wt%, 30 minutes immersion, 25 ° C. Recovery: 30 minutes immersion, 25 ° C. [: C J! C 0 u § 41 .c ... � "iii 110 100 90 80 70 60 50 N=20 �i I ii♦•+•-,l·•-1** : o111111 *: p0.05, **: p0.01 '1111111 Bleached --'------------------'-----------=----' Dunnett's test, control= STAG Natural Bleach STAC STAC +Ala DSDAC Figure 9. Improvement of surface hydrophobicity. 5D-�--------------------------� 10- .., __________ Bleached Q-'----�---------------------------' Natural Control Phe His Ala lie Arg Glu Figure 10. Improvement of tensile strength. ••: p0.01 Dunnett's test by application of phenylalanine or histidine. In fact, this increase is attributed to the increase of hair fiber diameter with the tensile strength per area being unchanged. These amino acids are probably diffused into hair fiber and interact with protein to influence the structure. IMPROVEMENT OF COLOR RETENTION BY SODIUM PCA Salts of PCA are highly hygroscopic. This property is expected to contribute to retention of not only water but also other water-soluble molecules in hair fibers, such as dye molecules.

2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 355 Test I was designed to examine this idea. The result is shown in Figure 11. Basically the influence of pH is significant, bur for all pH conditions better color retention was observed with PCA. The difference of color retention at pH 7.2 is impressive. Figure 12 shows the influence of counter ion on color retention effect: the combination of PCA and arginine exhibited the best. Taking the "anchor" effect of arginine into account (Figure 6), the amount of PCA in/on hair seems to be the key for the color retention effect. Test II was designed to examine the color retention effect in more practical condition. Sodium PCA was employed instead of PCA in consideration of material availability and cost aspect. Color development was significantly improved by Sodium PCA or Sodium PCA/arginine combination (Figure 13). After 6 or 12 wash cycles Yak hair treated with the PCA containing products showed a distinct brighter, more vibrant shade (Figure 14). CONCLUSION A variety of methods were applied to evaluate the interactions and effects of amino acids on bleach- or dye-treated hair. The findings obtained in this study were summarized as follows: • When amino acids are applied to hair as the state of simple aqueous solution, uptake of the amino acids is mainly controlled by ionic equilibrium. When amino acids were incorporated in hair care formulations, interaction between the amino acids and other ingredients. • Uptake of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a derivative of glutamic acid, is en- hanced by combining with arginine, an amino with strong affinity towards hair. • A hair conditioner incorporated with alanine improves hair surface hydrophobicity of bleach-damaged hair. • Histidine and phenylalanine improve tensile strength. • PCA was proved to be effective to improve color-retention of dyed hair. In conclusion, we emphasize the potential of amino acids as hair care material. While more than twenty specific naturally occurring amino acids are found in various proteins, only a few of them are outlined in this study. Further investigation will be required. 1 4 0.----------------------, � 120 GI ., 100 1----------------1""�-----tdlf!tt-- � 80 60 1.9 2.8 3.2 5.3 7.2 pH Value Figure 11. Color retention of semi-permanent hair dye. • PCA Citric acid

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354 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 4.0 N=3, mean± S.D. CD 'i:" 3.0 � ·- J!I .. CL"T 2.0 ::::, .ea cm a.- 1.0 0.0 PCA-Arg PCA-Na Figure 8. Uptake of PCA: the effect of counter ion. PCA treatment: 5 wt%, 30 minutes immersion, 25 ° C. Recovery: 30 minutes immersion, 25 ° C. [: C J! C 0 u § 41 .c ... � "iii 110 100 90 80 70 60 50 N=20 �i I ii♦•+•-,l·•-1** : o111111 *: p0.05, **: p0.01 '1111111 Bleached --'------------------'-----------=----' Dunnett's test, control= STAG Natural Bleach STAC STAC +Ala DSDAC Figure 9. Improvement of surface hydrophobicity. 5D-�--------------------------� 10- .., __________ Bleached Q-'----�---------------------------' Natural Control Phe His Ala lie Arg Glu Figure 10. Improvement of tensile strength. ••: p0.01 Dunnett's test by application of phenylalanine or histidine. In fact, this increase is attributed to the increase of hair fiber diameter with the tensile strength per area being unchanged. These amino acids are probably diffused into hair fiber and interact with protein to influence the structure. IMPROVEMENT OF COLOR RETENTION BY SODIUM PCA Salts of PCA are highly hygroscopic. This property is expected to contribute to retention of not only water but also other water-soluble molecules in hair fibers, such as dye molecules.

2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 355 Test I was designed to examine this idea. The result is shown in Figure 11. Basically the influence of pH is significant, bur for all pH conditions better color retention was observed with PCA. The difference of color retention at pH 7.2 is impressive. Figure 12 shows the influence of counter ion on color retention effect: the combination of PCA and arginine exhibited the best. Taking the "anchor" effect of arginine into account (Figure 6), the amount of PCA in/on hair seems to be the key for the color retention effect. Test II was designed to examine the color retention effect in more practical condition. Sodium PCA was employed instead of PCA in consideration of material availability and cost aspect. Color development was significantly improved by Sodium PCA or Sodium PCA/arginine combination (Figure 13). After 6 or 12 wash cycles Yak hair treated with the PCA containing products showed a distinct brighter, more vibrant shade (Figure 14). CONCLUSION A variety of methods were applied to evaluate the interactions and effects of amino acids on bleach- or dye-treated hair. The findings obtained in this study were summarized as follows: • When amino acids are applied to hair as the state of simple aqueous solution, uptake of the amino acids is mainly controlled by ionic equilibrium. When amino acids were incorporated in hair care formulations, interaction between the amino acids and other ingredients. • Uptake of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a derivative of glutamic acid, is en- hanced by combining with arginine, an amino with strong affinity towards hair. • A hair conditioner incorporated with alanine improves hair surface hydrophobicity of bleach-damaged hair. • Histidine and phenylalanine improve tensile strength. • PCA was proved to be effective to improve color-retention of dyed hair. In conclusion, we emphasize the potential of amino acids as hair care material. While more than twenty specific naturally occurring amino acids are found in various proteins, only a few of them are outlined in this study. Further investigation will be required. 1 4 0.----------------------, � 120 GI ., 100 1----------------1""�-----tdlf!tt-- � 80 60 1.9 2.8 3.2 5.3 7.2 pH Value Figure 11. Color retention of semi-permanent hair dye. • PCA Citric acid

2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 357 (3) R. Ninomiya, Y. Imori, and T. Inamura, Proc. 43rd Scientific Meeting of Sic. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 28 (1998). (4) M. Gamez-Garcia, Effects of some oils, emulsions and other systems on the mechanical properties of hair at small deformations, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 69-87 0993). (5) E. Oshimura and M. Ino, Effects of Arginine on hair damage via oxidative coloring process,]. Cosmet. Soc., 55(suppl.), Sl55-Sl 70 (2004). (6) C.R.Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 4th ed. (Springer, New York, 2002), pp. 249-250. (7) M. Arai, T. Suzuki, Y. Kaneko, and M. Miyake, Properties of aggregates of amide guanidine type cationic surfactant with 1-hexadecanol adsorbed on hair, Proc. Int. Conference on Colloid Surface Sci. (2000). (8) R. Beyrak, S. F. Meyer, and G. S. Kass, Elasticity and tensile properties of human hair. I. Single fiber test method,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 615-626 (1971). (9) M. L. Tate, Y. K. Karnath, S. B. Reutsch, and H. -D. W eigmann, Quantification and prevention of hair damage,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 347-371 (1993).

J. Cosmet. Sci. ! 58, 359-368 Quly/August 2007) Hair medulla morphology and mechanical properties RITA WAGNER and INES JOEKES, Departamento de Ffsico Qufmica! lnstituto de Qufmica! Universidade Estadual de Campinas! UN/CAMP! CP 6154, 13083-970! Campinas, SP, Brazil. Synopsis The morphology of human hair was extensively discussed in the last century, except for hair medulla, mainly because it was believed to have little or no influence on any useful hair property. Early SEM results showed that medulla is formed by unorganized fibrilar material that could be macrofibrils randomly located in the fiber center. The present paper aims to correlate the fibrilar structures with the macrofibrils using trans- mission electron microscopy (TEM) and to evaluate the influence of medulla on the mechanical properties of hair. TEM micrographs show that the interface between cortex and medulla is surrounded by a CMC layer and that there is less electronically dense material between cortical cells. Cortical cells in medulla give the usual microfibril crystalline arrangement. The cells become scarce and less organized in the center of the medulla, which also shows air filled granules. Average values of the mechanical properties are similar for unmedullated and medullated fibers. However higher dispersion in data for medullated fibers is observed. Unmedulated fibers are more uniform and show smaller diameters. These data indicate that the air cavities in medulla do not interfere with the mechanical properties, but leave hair strength less uniform. INTRODUCTION Human hair morphology has been extensively discussed in recent decades due to the interest of the cosmetic industry and the dermatological and forensic sciences (1). With advances in microscopic techniques, it is possible to obtain additional physical and chemical information about morphological hair structures, using atomic force micros- copy (AFM) or image mass spectrometry, for example (2,3). Despite more difficult sample preparation methods, the classical electron microscopy techniques (TEM and SEM) are still very much used to study human hair morphology (4,5) mainly because of their resolutions. Human hair is composed mainly of a-keratin (- 80% w/w), which is an a-helical protein with high cystine content (6,7). Morphologically, human hair is divided into four units: cortex, cuticle, intercellular material and medulla the medulla is not always present. The cuticle has an amorphous character. Each cuticle cell is formed by 4 subunits that have distinct chemical compositions and reactivities. Their cross-linked structure de- pends on the cystine content. (8,9). The cell membrane complex (CMC), which is found between the cuticle cells, is a hydrophilic material rich in polar amino acids and lysine 359

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