432 100 80 Cl 60 ::c 40 0 20 0 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE +------_,.__----=:e!!!llllll��ll&-----------1-0- %N -1.25 -0-¾N-1.45 _._%N -1.8 +--------1-.#--:i,-.....,...,._-� .------- ----=��.,_-------l�%N-2.1 1.0 3.3 5.0 Dilution Ratio l�¾N-2.5 7.5 10.0 Figure 9. Coacervate formation in shampoos containing PQ-67 polymers. described in this paper. This provides some insights on the mechanistic aspects of the high charge density PQ-67 polymers' outstanding performance. OTHER PROPERTIES IN SHAMPOOS As shown above, novel high charge density PQ-67 polymers demonstrated improved overall performance and, in particular, showed outstanding ability to deposit benefit agents on hair from shampoo formulations. At the same time, these polymers were found to retain the good qualities of the PQ-10 and their lower charge density PQ-67 coun- terparts, such as enabling crystal clear formulations,32 showing no excessive build-up on hair33 (as shown on Figure 10), and having no negative impact on foam34 (as shown on Figure 11). CONCLUSIONS A series of new experimental high charge density PQ-67 polymers were prepared and evaluated in shampoo formulations. These new compositions demonstrated outstanding performance in assisting deposition of performance ingredients such as silicone and fragrance on human hair. They were found superior compared to PQ-10, lower charge density PQ-67 polymers, and cationic guar benchmarks. In several studies experimental polymers outperformed the cationic guar benchmark even when less polymer or silicone 32 Measuring less than 4% haze on Nippon Denshoku 300A hazemeter, 50 mm pathlength, 0.3% polymer. :n The amount of deposited polymer was assessed by detecting the amount of anionic Red 80 dye bound to the cationic polymer deposited to the hair as described in (1). The deposition values were normalized per amount of polymer deposited after one wash. The prototype formulation included 0.3 wt.% polymer (experimental high charge density PQ-67 polymer with 2.1 wt.% N and medium hydrophobic substitution, UCARETM JR-30M (PQ-10), or Jaguar® C-13S) in a SLES/DSCADA surfactant base. 34 Quantitative foam measurements were performed as described in (12): all foam generated while sham- pooing a hair tress was collected and weighed and then its volume and density were calculated.). The prototype formulation included 0.3 wt.% polymer (experimental high charge density PQ-67 polymer with 2.1 wt.% N and medium hydrophobic substitution, UCARE™ JR-30M (PQ-10), or Jaguar® C-13S) in a SLES/DSCADA surfactant base.
L. ca .c en a, a "C E ca L. en 0 L. u ■- E 1.75 1.5 1.25 1 2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 1 wash 3 washes 5 washes 1-o- Cationic guar -a- PQ-1 D --tr PQ-67 I Figure 10. Polymer deposition on European virgin brown hair. Red 80 Anionic Dye Test. 40 0 35 0 T"" .!!. 30 E a, 25 20 C: 15 -E (1) E :::s 0 10 5 No Polymer Cat. guar PQ-10 PQ-67 Figure 11. Foam volume and density measurement. 433 was used in the formulation containing PQ-67. Along with excellent overall condition- ing, shampoos formulated with new PQ-67 polymers provided improved volume control and manageability to problem hair-a much needed benefit for anti-frizz/smoothing formulas and products that target sleek hair look. Perceivable improvement in delivery of fragrance to the hair was also substantiated. This could also make the polymers
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