2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 457 Table I Tabulation of Data and Calculation of Mending for One Tress After leave-on After leave-on treatment treatment Fiber# Before treatment (before combing) (after combing) p s T p s T p s T 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 0.5 () 0 4 0 0 () 0 0 0 0 5 2 1 0 0.5 0 1 0.5 0 6 0 0 0 0 0 0.5 () 0 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 8 () 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 9 0 0 0.5 0 0 0.5 0 0 10 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 11 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 12 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 13 0 0 0 0 0 () 14 1 0 0 0 () 0 0 15 () 0 0.5 0 0 1 0 0 16 0 0 0 () () 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 0 0 0 () () 18 0 () () 0 0 0 0 19 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 20 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 Total split end 20 7 3 1 0.5 0 8.5 0.5 0 Complete mending (%) 90 85.7 100 50 85.7 100 Total mending ( % ) 95 92.8 100 57.5 92.8 100 Durability Index D 0.61 1 History of mending for each fiber as observed with stereomicroscope (1 = end split 0 = intact end 0.5 = partial split P = primary split S = secondary split T = tertiary split). Durability step-Posttreatment with combing the hair tress. Each hair tress is combed twenty times with the fine teeth of the comb. Pictures of the tagged fiber ends are again taken under the stereomicroscope and their files labeled as post treatment with combing. During the observation of each fiber the permanent mark is identified as a landmark to make sure the end of the split fiber has not broken off to guard against a false positive mending effect being recorded. Scoring is tabulated as before as is seen in Table I. Calculation of split end mending percentage. The following two equations are used to cal- culate the degree of split end mending. Total# split ends before treatment -# split ends after treatment Total mending%=----------------------- X 1 00 Total# split ends before treatment Total percent mending includes the assessment of both complete and partial splits. Scoring: 1 = split end, 0 = mended split, 0.5 = partially mended split. Total mending% after combing Durability Index (D) = ------------ Total mending% before combing Therefore, the maximum D = 1.0, and the minimum D = 0.

458 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Fiber 2 before tre tment Figure 4. Stereomicroscopic view of fiber (20x) showing primary and secondary level splits. All of the results reported in this study are based on total mending which includes the assessment of both complete and partial mending of the split end fiber. An example of the calculation of the tabulated data for one of the five tresses of a study is found at the bottom of Table I. Again, although the secondary and tertiary level splits are assessed as well more emphasis is placed on the primary splits since these are apparent to the naked eye and their mending would afford a consumer perceivable benefit. Illustration of complete and partial mending. Figure 5 shows the three stages of the mea- surement cycle namely pretreatment, post treatment before combing, and finally post treatment after combing. The last step tests the durability of the mend. The red dot made with the permanent marker can be observed just prior to the split end. This series of photos in Figure 5A) serves to exemplify complete mending of the split end. Figure 5B) shows an example where the fiber has been partially mended after treatment and stays partially mended after the post combing process. In this case a score of 0.5 would be assigned. Both complete and partial mending are taken into consideration in the assessment of mending and is designated as total mending. Advantages of the test method. Since the tagged split end fibers are part of the trees, application of the treatment can be performed in a realistic fashion simulating consumer usage. In this experiment the product is applied to damp hair and allowed to air dry. However, the method allows the study of different application techniques such as brush and blow drying or adding the treatment to d ry hair for example. The advantage of the tagging process allows the study of the fate of the split end after