368 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE on hair appearance. I. Light scattering from the porous structure of the medulla of human hair,]. Cosmet. Sci., 53(2), 89-100 (2002). (19) H. Zahn, P. Jolles, and H. Hocker, Formation and Structure of Human Hair (Birkhauser Verlag, Basel, Switzerland), pp. 59, 148 (1997). (20) J. A. Swift, Fundamentals of Human Hair Science (Micelle Press, Weymouth, Dorset), pp. 57 (1997). (21) M. S. C. Birbeck and E. Mercer, The electron microscopy of the human hair follicle. The hair cuticle, ]. Biophys. Biochem. Cytol. 3, 223-233 (1957). (22) J. L. Clement, A. Le Pareux, and P. F. Ceccaldi, Contribution a l'etude de la medulla des poils, Ann. Dermatolog. Venereoly, 108, 849-857 (1981). (23) Rogers, G. E., Electron microscope studies of hair and wool, Ann. New York Acad. Sci., 83, 378-399 (1959). (24) S. M. Thozhur, A. D. Crocombe, and P.A. Smith, Structural characteristics and mechanical behaviour of beard hair,]. Mater. Sci., 41, 1109-1121 (2006). (25) Feughelman, M., A two-phase structure for keratin fibers, Text. Res.]., 29, 223 (1959). (26) M. Feughelman, A model for the mechanical properties of the alpha-keratin cortex, Text. Res.]., 64, 236-239 (1994). (27) B. M. Chapman, A mechanical model for wool and other keratin fibers, Text. Res.]., 1102-1109 (1969).
]. Cosmet. Sci.! 58, 369-374 Quly/August 2007) Can a topical scalp treatment reduce hair bulb extraction? JAMES V. GRUBER, LISA BOULDIN, and KEVIN LOU, Arch Personal Care! 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield, NJ 07080. Synopsis Generally speaking, when people talk about "hair breakage" they are typically referring to the idea that as they comb or brush their hair, the fibers are elongating and snapping at some weak point in the fiber length. It is well established that as people chemically treat their hair, the keratin proteins are degraded further and the hair become more brittle and susceptible to breakage. For the consumer, hair breakage is registered as hair fibers noted in their comb or brush, and in the drain that they see after a cosmetic treatment. However, a fundamental question that needs to be asked is whether or not the hairs that are seen in the drain are really the result of hair breakage (i.e., a fiber snapping) or are they the result of hairs that are actually being extracted from the scalp by their root bulbs. If the bulk of the hair fibers are actually extracted by the bulb, than it seems somewhat superfluous to try and improve hair strength by improving the exterior of the fiber. The fiber is dead and topical treatments can only smooth, and possibly moisten already established fiber structure and integrity. This paper will attempt to address hair strength by looking at the scalp and follicle as the target for treatment, showing that topical application of a product containing a blend of well-known skin active ingredients can demonstrate potential reductions in hair extractions. An in vivo testing protocol in which 1 S voluntary participants with at least 12" hair length were professionally shampooed, and then treated, half-head, with a commercial conditioner, or the same conditioner that contained 5% of a mixture of yeast peptides, fruit acids and green tea polyphenols every day for five days will be discussed. At the beginning and end of the treatment period, the number of hairs that either broke along the fiber, or extracted by the bulb were gathered, separated and counted for both the treated and untreated side of the head. The results of this one-week study demonstrate that the number of hairs that actually break pales in comparison to the number of hairs that are extracted complete with intact root bulb from the follicle. INTRODUCTION Aside from treatments of the skin, the human hair remains one of the most heavily treated sites on the human body. It is generally established that once a human hair fiber has emerged from the scalp follicle, the cellular components have lost their nuclear material and the keratin proteins of the hair have become highly crosslinked offering, to the external environment, a non-living, fibrous entity (1,2). On the other hand, below the stratum corneum, in the follicle, the hair is very much alive (3 ). At the base of the follicle resides the hair bulb, the source for dermal papillae cells which are the living cells from which hair fibers emerge. The growth of the hair passes through various stages depending on a number of bio- chemically-induced signals. Principally, hair growth is highly dependent on steroidal signals such as testosterone and estrogen levels (3 ). The principal steroid responsible for changes in the hair growth cycles is testosterone. Testosterone binds to the androgen receptor (AR) within the dermal papillae cells and transfers hair from a resting state 369
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