430 10 .!! ca 6 CL .. 4 2 ::I z 0 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 10 8 6 4 2 0-+--L--__,..._..__...,._____...,.______...,. Wet Comb Wet Feel Dry Comb Dry Feel Wet Comb Wet Feel Dry Comb Dry Feel I 1':111 Commercial shampoo ■ PQ-67, 2.5 wt. % N, Medium HS II lll::ll Cationic guar □ PQ-67, 2.1 wt % N, Medium HS I Figure 7. Subjective panel evaluation on European virgin hair. A. Shampoo Formulation B: PQ-67 versus commercial shampoo. B. Shampoo Formulation B: PQ-67 versus cationic guar. After the hair dried, panelists' choices indicated no statistical difference in d ry comb and feel between swatches (Figure 7 A). A second panel study was conducted to compare the Shampoo Formulation B made with a high charge density PQ-67 polymer22 to an identical formulation containing cationic guar.23 As expected from the silicone depo- sition data, the PQ-67 formulation outperformed the guar control in both comb and feel in the wet and dry state, Figure 7B. DEPOSITION OF FRAGRANCE Fragrance is another important performance ingredient besides silicones that greatly contributes to the overall aesthetics of shampoo products and their acceptance by con- sumers. Delive ry of long-lasting fragrance to the hair from rinse-off formulations such as shampoos and conditioners represents a serious challenge. The high charge density PQ-67 polymers that demonstrated remarkable performance in assisting the deposition of silicones on hair were also tested for deposition of fragrance from a shampoo formu- lation. White Tea Fragrance24 was formulated at 1 wt.% in an SLES/DSCADA 25 pro- totype shampoo formulation along with 0.4 wt.% cationic conditioning polymer. The fragrance deposition from a shampoo containing a high charge density PQ-67 polymer26 was evaluated against similar shampoos containing no polymer, SoftCAT SK-MH,27 and cationic guar in a series of subjective panel evaluation studies on European virgin hair tresses conducted in the same manner as described above. The results of these studies are summarized in Figure 8. It was shown that the high charge density PQ-67 polymer used in this study improved deposition of the white tea fragrance on virgin brown hair and that the difference was perceivable to the panelists in all three cases (9/1028 or 8/1029). 22 PQ-67 polymer with 2.1 wt. %N and medium HS was used in this study. 2 ' Jaguar C-13S. 24 Provided by Fragrance Resources, Inc. 25 The same surfactant system as used in the Shampoo Formulation A. 26 PQ-67 polymer with 2.5 wt.% N and medium HS. 2 7 SoftCAT SK-MH was found to deliver more fragrance on skin from rinse-off formulations compared to other PQ-67 and PQ-10 polymers and cationic guar (SoftCA T SK Conditioning Polymers, product brochure issued by Amerchol Corporation/Dow Chemical Company (2005)). 2 8 Exact Significance level = 98% (binomial distribution). 29 Exact Significance level = 89% (binomial distribution).

.!! a, C ca a. ... a, .D E ::I z 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 431 PQ-67 vs. blank PQ-67 vs. PQ-67 vs. SoftCAT SK-MH Cat. guar Figure 8. Fragrance deposition on European virgin brown hair, wet subjectives. Coacervate studies. In order to understand the origin of the step-change boost in assisted deposition of performance ingredients observed for the high charge density PQ-67 polymers, their coacervate formation was studied in clear shampoo systems formulated with no silicone and 0.3 wt.% polymer in a SLES/DSCADA surfactant30 base and 0.3 wt.% polymer. Haze measurements were performed using the Nippon Denshoku 300A hazemeter in a 50 mm path length cell. As discussed above, cationic polymers are known to form coacervates with anionic surfactants. Clear in a concentrated form, surfactant solutions with PQ-10 and PQ-67 cationic polymers become hazy upon dilution. This haziness, which is an indicator of coacervate formation, was measured over a dilution range of 0-10 and haze (coacervate) curves were studies. As shown in Figure 9, the coacervate curves of PQ-67 polymers with wt.% N ranging from 1.25 to 2.5% changed their shape and position depending on charge. In the range of 1.25 up to 1.8 wt.% N, their shape progressively evolved from lower and broader curves (low CS) to higher and "sharper" (narrower) curves (higher CS). In addition, these curves progressively shifted toward the lower dilution ratio. This trend was earlier noticed and described for the PQ-10 polymers, such as, for example UCARETM LR-30M (%N -1.0) and JR-30M (%N -1.8).31 On the contrary, the haze curves for the high charge density PQ-67 polymers with % N above 2.0 did not follow the same trend. They became higher and broader at the same time (Figure 9) extending over a broader range of dilution compared to their 1.8% N predecessor. This is a known indicator of more coacervate being formed that raises expectations of superior deposition/co-deposition and conditioning performance. Therefore, these observations are in agreement with earlier findings from the silicone and fragrance deposition studies 30 The same surfactant system as used in the Shampoo Formulation A. 31 UCARE™ product literature, Amerchol Corporation.