438 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Table III Test Formulation (w/w%) Siliconized HPS 5.0 Propylene glycol 95.0 MEASUREMENT OF MOISTURIZING EFFECT Preparation of hair sample. Three tresses of bleached hair were prepared in 15 cm length and 1.5 grams weight, and the tresses were treated by spreading of 2.0 grams weight of each hair treatment cream as shown in Table IV, kept for 10 minutes at 40°C and dried with a hair dryer. Before the water loss was measured, hair was cut in 1 cm length. Measurement of water loss. In order to measure water loss, electric moisture balance (model: EB-330MOC, Simadzu Co., Ltd.) was employed (5). A fragment of hair (300 mg, 1 cm length) was placed on a saucer of the balance, and the change of weight by heating was recorded every 30 seconds. The sample hair was heated for the first 40 minutes at 65°C which is assumed to be the temperature in normal use of a hair dryer, and for the next 30 minutes at 180°C to evaporate whole water contained in hair (6). As shown in Figure 2, the first converging point (A) was observed between 30 and 40 minutes after starting to heat, and the second converging point (B) was observed between 60 and 70 minutes. Based on the difference of weights between A and B, the secondary transpiring moisture content was calculated according to the above equation. MEASUREMENT OF COLOR RETENTION EFFECT Preparation of hair sample. Two tresses of bleached hair were prepared in 15 cm length and 1.5 grams weight, and a commercially available hair dye (red color) was applied. Both the tresses were kept for 30 minutes at 40°C after application of the hair dye, and then rinsed with distilled running water. One of the tress was washed with sodium polyoxy- ethylen (3) laurylether sulfate (1 % water solution) containing 0.1 % of siliconized HPS, and the other one was washed with sodium polyoxyethylen (3) laurylether sulfate (1 % water solution) without Siliconized HPS as a control for 10 minutes at 40°C with mild agitation. And each the tress was rinsed for 30 seconds with distilled running water, and dried with a hair dryer. This washing process was repeated 5 times for each the tress. Measurement of degree of discoloring. Degree of discoloring was measured by color laser profile with use of analyzing function of laser microscope (model: VK-8500, Keyence Co., Ltd.) according to Uchida's method (7). Emulsifying polymer Siliconizel HPS Dimethicone Water Table IV Formulas of Hair Treatment Cream (w/w%) Control 3.0 qs 100.0 Siliconized HPS 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 Dimethicone 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0
B 0.0 2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 20.0 Moisture in hair Secondary transpiration moisture 40.0 Heating time (min.) 60.0 439 80.0 Figure 2. Illustration of transpiration moisture. Secondary transpiration moisture(%) (dry base) = (A-B)/B X 100. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION GLOSSING EFFECT As shown in Figure 3, Siliconized HSP was superior to give gloss on hair to dimethicone or amodimethicone. SUBSTANTIVITY (MEASURED WITH ICP) Quantitative analysis for silicon of siliconized HPS adsorbed to hair showed that the substantivity of siliconized HPS to hair was twice as much as dimethicone (Figure 4). This result suggested siliconized HPS was adsorbed more than dimethicone to damaged hair which has hydrophilic protein part. SUBSTANTIVITY (MEASURED WITH EDS) Figure 5 shows SEM photo and distribution map of Si. The result indicated Si in the hair 60 55 g +-' 50 ·u 45 0 40 0 ·-g 35 30 �-----__J"' Control Siliconized HPS Dime1hicone Amodimethicone (6000cs) Figure 3. Illustration of transpiration moisture.
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