2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 419 ionized water. A probable hypothesis may be that the Phoenomulse CE-1 ® is responsible for some hydrogen bonding which may be lowering the Kevap of the external phase. This phenomenon provides an opportunity for continued research. Once the Cosmetic Fluid CF-61 ® from FBT formulations containing surfactant evapo- rates at the surface, foam is produced, creating an active foaming product. Since the release of the cosmetic fluid occurs only at the liquid-air interface, only a fraction of Cosmetic Fluid CF-61 ® is released at any given time. While this certainly enhances the positive foam attributes of the formulation, it also creates challenges when quantifying the foam of any given formulation. Formulation modifications which affect the water efficiency at the liquid-air interface, will also affect initial foam quantity, and ultimately foaming performance. This is supported when observing the changes in foam rates at different saccharide hydrosalate levels (Figure 2). Foam rate increase observations in formulations with lower water efficiency at the liquid-air interface may also support the release mechanism hypothesis. The rate of nanostructure disruption directly affects foam rate, and ultimately, foam performance. Foam rate measurements utilizing the in vitro test method developed for the use of this work can be a valuable aid when determining Phoenomulse CE-1 ® levels during FBT formulation navigation and formulation performance optimization. Determination of Phoenomulse CE-1 ® levels in formulations which contain naturally-based detergents whose foaming performance must equal that of SLS can be achieved with good accuracy. An example is demonstrated when observing similar initial foam generation rates of 5% SLS with 1-5% Phoenomulse CE-1 ® to formulations containing 5 % Planteran 2000 N UP® with 15% Phoenomulse CE-1 ® (Figure 3). Subjective evaluations of these two formulations suggest similar foaming performance. REFERENCES (1) T. Harding, Perception of foam: Are there alternatives to SLES? Proceedings of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists (ASCC), 37th Annual Conference (Cosmetics on a New Horizon), March 13-16, 2003, Hamilton Island, Queensland, Australia, CD-ROM, paper 11, pages 1-6. (2) C. M. Persson, P. M. Claesson, and I. Johansson, Interfacial behavior of n-octyl beta-D- glucopyranoside compared to that of a technical mixture consisting of octyl glucosides, Langmuir, 16, (26) (2000). (3) K. Klein, Evaluating shampoo foam, Cosmet. Toiletr. 119 (10), 32-35 (2004). (4) M. Krzan, K. Lunkenheimer, and K. Malysa, Surfactant's polar group on the local and terminal velocities of bubbles, Colloids Su/ A: Physicochem, 250 (1-3), 431-441 (2004). (5) B. Salka, Polyglycosides properties and applications, Cosmet. Toiletr., 108(3), 89-94 (1993).

]. Cosmet. Sci.! 58, 421-434 CTuly/August 2007) New high-charge density hydrophobically modified cationic HEC polymers for improved co-deposition of benefit agents and serious conditioning for problem hair T. V. DROVETSKAYA, E. F. DIANTONIO, R. L. KREEGER, J. L. AMOS, and D. P. FRANK, Amerchol Corporation, A Subsidiary of The Dow Chemical Company, 171 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854. Synopsis A series of new high charge density Polyquaternium-671 (PQ-67) polymers have been prepared and evaluated in shampoo formulations. These new compositions represent an addition to the family of high- viscosity quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl am- monium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium2 (Figure lA) described in (l) and (2). The evaluation protocol included objective lab methods and subjective panel studies on different hair types. Commercial condi- tioning polymers: PQ-67 (Polymers SoftCAT1M�'') and cationic guar4 Qaguar C-13S®5) were used as per- formance benchmarks. It was found that increasing the cationic charge density of the PQ-67 polymers above 1.45 meq/g (equiva- lent of 2 weight-percent (wt.%) nitrogen) resulted in a several-fold boost of their co-deposition ability. These experimental, high charge density PQ-67 polymers were shown to deliver silicones and other per- formance ingredients from shampoo formulations more efficiently than any other polymer currently avail- able on the market for rinse-off hair cleansing/conditioning applications. The polymers also provided improved wet and/or dry conditioning, volume control, and could be instrumental in achieving sleek looking hair and improved control/manageability of unruly or frizzy hair. The high charge density PQ-67 polymers are also ideally suited for highly-fragranced surfactant-based formulas that are used in aroma- therapy and spa products due to their superior ability to deliver fragrance. BACKGROUND Hair is a diverse substrate that comes in different shapes, colors and textures. Its properties and appearance vary for different races and age groups, as do the benefits that consumers are seeking in new hair care products. As more and more consumers are shampooing, grooming, coloring, bleaching or waving/straightening their hair, they are Address all correspondence to T. V. Drovetskaya. 1 Hydrophobically modified cationic conditioning HEC polymers. 2 Supplied by Amerchol Corporation/Dow Chemical Company under the trade name SoftCAT™ SL and SK. 3 Supplied by Amerchol Corporation/Dow Chemical Company. 4 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 5 Supplied by Rhodia. 421