436 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE in Figure 1. For comparison to siliconized HPS, amodimethicone which is wildly used for hair care product, and dimethicone (6000cs) which has the same range of viscosity as siliconized HPS were used. HAIR SAMPLE Japanese female scalp hair, which had never been processed by chemical treatment, was used. The hair was soaked in aqueous solution of sodium polyoxyethylene (3) laurylether sulfate for 30 minutes at 40 ° C. The volume of the solution was ten times more than the volume of the hair. Then the hair was rinsed with distilled running water and dried with a hair dryer. PREPARATION OF DAMAGED HAIR (BLEACHING) In order to keep test result in precision and reproducible, the hair was bleached mildly. For bleaching, the aqueous bleach solution that is the same volume with the hair (3% hydroperoxide, 1 % ammonium hydroxide) was used. The hair was soaked in the solution for 30 minutes at 30°C and rinsed with running distilled water. Subsequently, the hair was soaked in buffer solution (pH 3.0 of 0.1 mol/L citric acid-0.2 mol/L disodium hydrogen phosphate) that volume is 10 times more than the volume of the hair for 5 minutes, and rinsed with distilled running water. Furthermore, the hair was soaked in deionized water that volume is 10 times more than the volume of the hair for 5 minutes, and dried with a hair dryer. Tresses were made from the above processed hair and were used in the following examinations. GLOSSING EFFECT Preparation of hair sample. Three tresses of bleached hair were prepared in 15 cm length and each hair tress was 1.5 grams weight. Those tresses were treated by spreading 2.0 grams of each hair treatment cream as shown in Table I, kept for 10 minutes at 40 ° C and dried with a hair dryer. Measurement of glossing effect. For measuring gloss effect, Goniphotometer GP-200 (Mu- rakami color technical center) was employed. SUBSTANTIVITY (MEASURED WITH ICP) Preparation of hair sample. Two tresses of bleached hair were prepared in 15 cm length and 0.5 grams weight, and the tresses were treated with each hair treatment cream as shown Figure 1. Structure of siliconized HPS (a, b, c and d shows degree of polymerization).
Isopropyl Isostearate Ceteyl alcohol Steartorimonium chloride Emulsifying polymer* 1 Siliconized HPS Dimethicone Amodimethicone Water 2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE Table I Formulas of Hair Treatment Cream (w/w%) Control 3.0 qs 100.0 Siliconized HPS 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 14.0 3.0 8.0 Dimethicone 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 437 Amodimethicone 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 * 1 Mixture of sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethitaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG, Seppic, France) in Table II. One gram of correspond hair treatment was applied to each hair tress. Subsequently, each hair tress was kept for 10 minutes at 40°C on plastic film, rinsed with distilled running water for 15 seconds and dried with a hair dryer. Each treated hair tress was soaked in 30 ml of mixed solvent (chloroform: methanol = 2:1 (v/v)) for 20 minutes with agitation by ultrasonic device to extract polymers adhering to the hair surface. After evaporation of the solvent in vacuum to dryness, the residue was solved and diluted in methylisobutylketone for quantitative analysis of silicon. Measurement of substantivity. Quantitative analysis of silicon contained in the extract from each tress was carried out with ICP (Inductively coupled plasma) photometer (model SPSl 700HVR. Seiko Densi CO., Ltd.) (4), while silicon content was calculated in unit weight of siliconized HPS and dimethicone. Then, the weight per gram of hair of the substance to each tress was estimated based on both quantitative analysis of silicon and silicon content in unit weight of siliconized HPS and dimethicone. SUBSTANTIVITY (MEASURED WITH EDS) Preparation of hair sample. A tress of normal hair was prepared in 15 cm length and 2.0 grams weight, and the tress was treated with test formulation as shown in Table III, kept for 10 minutes at 40°C, rinsed with distilled running water for 60 seconds and dried with a hair dryer. Measurement of substantivity. Substantivity of Siliconized HPS was confirmed by measure- ment of Si deposition on the hair surface. An energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (model JED-2300, JEOL Ltd.) was employed for measurement of Si distribution. Table II Formulas of Hair Treatment Cream (w/w%) Siliconized HPS Dimethicone (6000cs) Dimethicone (1 0000cs) Emulsifying polymer 3.0 3.0 3.0 Siliconized HPS 5.0 Dimethicone (6000cs) 5.0 Dimethicone (lO000cs) 5.0 Water qs 100.0 qs 100.0 qs 100.0
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