434 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE described here well suited for aromatherapy and spa formulas. According to the perfor- mance data presented in this paper, the new high charge density PQ-67 polymers should be recommended for a range of hair types that would benefit from enhanced deposition, premium conditioning and volume control: from normal, not chemically treated to problem hair (frizzy, unruly, coarse etc.) as well as Asian hair types. REFERENCES (1) T. V. Drovetskaya, R. L. Kreeger, J. L. Amos, and C. B. Davis, Effects of low-level hydrophobic substitution on conditioning properties of cationic cellulosic polymers in shampoo systems,]. Cosmet. Sci., 5 5(Suppl.), S 195-S205 (2004). (2) R. L. Kreeger and S. Zhou, Cellulose ethers, International Patent Application WO 2005/000903 (2006). (3) M. Gamez-Garcia, Polycation substantivity to hair, IFSCC, 4, 99-107 (2001). (4) W. Li and S. L. P. Jordan, Cationic cellulosic polymers with multifunctional and outstanding perfor- mance for personal care, Cosmet. Toiletr. Manufact. Worldwide, 1-4 (2003). (5) S. Zhou, C. Xu, J. Wang, P. Golas, J. Batteas, and L. Kreeger, Phase behavior of cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose-sodium dodecyl sulfate mixtures: Effects of molecular weight and ethylene oxide side chain length of polymers, Langmuir, 20, 8482-8489 (2004). (6) W. Li, J. Amos, S. Jordan, A. Theis, and C. Davis, Selecting the optimum silicone particle size/cationic polymer structure to maximize shampoo conditioning performance, J. Cosmet. Sci., 57(2), 178-180 (2006). (7) X. Zhang, L. Kreeger, L. Kosensky, C. Barbeito, and J. Amos, Effect of cationic hydroxyethylcellulose polymer architecture on triglyceride deposition from body washes, IFSCC Congress (2004). (8) R. Y. Lochhead, "Shampoos," in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, 3d ed., M. L. Schlossman, Ed. (Allured Publishing Corporation, Carol Stream, IL, 2002), Vol. 2, pp. 277-326. (9) R. Y. Lochhead, Conditioning shampoo, Soap Cosmet. Chem. Spec., 42-49 (October 1992). (1 O) E. D. Goddard, "Polymer/Surfactant Interaction in Applied Systems," in Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care, E. D. Goddard and J. V. Grubber, Eds. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1999), pp. 181. (11) B. G. Johnson and S. Van Oycke, Towards optimum hair conditioning, Personal Care, 17-19 (2006). (12) W. Li, S. L. P. Jordan, X. Zhang, J. Amos, and C. Davis, Synergistic effects of high molecular weight polyethylene oxide (PEO) and cationic cellulosic polymers on conditioning properties of hair and skin care products, Cosmet. Toiletr. Manufact. Worldwide, 31-34 (2004).
]. Cosmet. Sci.! 58, 435-441 Quly/August 2007) Hydrolyzed protein derivatives accompanied with synergy by silylation or siliconizing AYAKO KOYANAGI, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., 1-2-14, Nunoichi-cho, Higashiosaka, Osaka, 579-8004 Japan. Synopsis Effects on hair, of a newly developed hybrid polymer consisting of hydrolyzed protein, modified with an alkyl chain and silicone was investigated. And it was confirmed that the polymer had color retention effect on dyed hair, and good substantivity contributing to hair luster, manageability, moist feel, smoothness and good combability. The above effects were displayed, especially on damaged hair. INTRODUCTION Many kinds of ingredients for hair treatment have been studied and developed, such as hydrolyzed proteins, silicones, oils, polymers, their derivatives and so on. Above all, hydrolyzed proteins and silicones have been widely used because the former gives hair wet feel, tenderness and gloss, and the latter gives hair also gloss, smoothness and good combability (1,2). However, both have weak points at once. Hydrolyzed protein is tightly adsorbed on hydrophilic part of hair (3), but it is easily washed off from hydro- phobic part of hair, and silicone is hardly adsorbed on hydrophilic part of hair (4). It is well known that chemical process on hair, such as permanent waving, coloring, bleaching causes hair damage which increases hydrophilic part on hair. On the other hand, hair coloring has been recently in fashion. Therefore, the ingredients suitable for damaged hair are strongly desired. In the viewpoint of this background, we have recently developed a new polymer con- sisted of hydrolyzed protein, alkylmethylpoly�iloxane (abbreviated as siliconized HPS, hereafter). Since siliconized HPS has both of hydrophilic part and hydrophobic part, siliconized HPS was expected to be adsorbed to damaged hair effectively, and to give properties of hydrolyzed protein and silicone to the hair at once. Siliconized HPS was evaluated on anti-discoloring effect, improvement of moist feel, and substantivity to hair in comparison with dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) and ami- noethyl aminopropylsiloxane dimetylsiloxane copolymer emulsion (amodimethicone), both of which have often been added to hair treatment formulas to improve hair touch. MATERIALS AND METHODS The INCi name of siliconized HPS produced by Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. is hydrolyzed silk PG-propyl methylsilanediol crosspolymer. The structure of siliconized HPS is as shown 435
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