]. Cosmet. Sci., 58, 413-419 CTuly/August 2007) A cosmetic ingredient innovation for the stabilization and delivery of volatile fluoroether with cosmetic applications STEVE COCHRAN and TIM BROCKMAN, Departments of Applications & Claims Support, Phoenix Chemical Inc., 60 Fourth Street, Somerville NJ, 08876. Synopsis Initially this work attempts to support, evaluate and identify the stabilization and release mechanism of volatile fluoroether (Cosmetic Fluid CF-61 ®*) in a self-assembling nanostructure in an external water phase (Phoenomulse CE-1 ®-n through evaporation rate analysis. The release mechanism is hypothesized to be a result of a dehydration process, a decrease in water efficiency due to evaporation of external water at the liquid-air interface, which results in destabilization of the nanostructure. This work further attempts to quantify the release mechanism of the same volatile fluroether (Cosmetic Fluid CF-61 ®) from the nano- structure in cosmetic formulations through a newly developed in vitro test method which measures initial foam generation rate. Finally, this work demonstrates the application of these newly developed test methods as a useful tool for product development, formulation navigation, and performance optimization. INTRODUCTION The more recent marketing trends in the personal care cleansing categories for super- mild, natural-based detergents have left many consumers and marketing professionals with growing disappointment, particularly with the foaming performance of these prod- ucts. Poor foam quality and quantity during usage of natural-based shampoos may be the largest limiting factor and largest technical challenge to the formulating chemist. Con- sumer behavior continues to teach product development professionals that overall prod- uct performance is directly related to the foaming performance of the product (1). "Foam boost technology (FBT)," an active foam boosting technology, may provide a solution to some of these inadequacies through its capabilities of enhancing the foaming performance of products. This powerful technology, via stabilization of volatile fluo- roether, (Cosmetic Fluid, CF-61 ®), allows self-activated foaming products to be pack- aged in non-pressurized standard containers. The foaming action is activated when the product is exposed or open to the air, but remains stable in a closed container. * Cosmetic Fluid CF-61 ® (Methyl pefluoroburyl ether methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether), 3M Company St. Paul MN, 55144. t Phoenomulse CE-1 ® (Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) isononyl isononanoate (and) ethylhexyl isononanoate (and) sodium cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (and) methyl pefluorobutyl ether (and) methylperfluoroisobutyl ether), Phoenix Chemical Inc., Somerville NJ 08876. 413

414 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Table I Formulations Prepared with Varying Concentrations (% w/w) of Corn Syrup for Foam Rate Determination ARL- ARL- ARL- ARL- ARL- Phase Lot no. Ingredient 8-lA 8-lB 8-lC 8-lD 8-lE NIA Deionized water 69.55 64.55 59.55 54.55 49.55 7040463 Steol® CS-1301 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 0506 Farmal HFS 26562 0.00 5.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 5JK8665K Keltrol CG-T3 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 10803040 Gelcarin PC3 794 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 2 0540 Phoenomulse CE-15 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Total % 100 100 100 100 100 1 Sodium laureth sulfate (Steol® CS-130), Stepan Company Northfield IL 60093. 2 Saccharide hydosalte (Farmal HFS 2656®), CornProducts, Bedford Park IL, 60501. 3 Xanthan gum (Keltrol CG-T®), CP Kelco Chicago IL, 60606. ARL- 8-lF 39.55 20.00 30.00 0.15 0.30 10.00 100 ARL- 8-lG 29.55 20.00 40.00 0.15 0.30 10.00 100 4 Chondrus crispus (Carrageenan) (Gelcarin PC379®), FMC BioPolymer via Earth Supplied Products, Philadelphia PA, 19103. Foaming products formulated with Phoenomulse CE-1 ® and FBT generate foam quality and quantity at levels which are unobtainable using any other past or current formula- tion technologies. Unlike traditional, passive, cleansing systems, FBT active systems are different in that they do not require outside mechanical action to generate foam. Once foam is produced, whether from an active FBT system, or a passive system, it can be analyzed. Traditional foam analysis models and methods, such as Ross Miles, cylinder shake, and the Hart-deGeorge blender method, which are designed to measure the foam quantity or stability of passive systems, are insufficient tools to guide product devel- opment professionals when optimizing formulations using FBT (2-4). A newly devel- oped method for measuring foam quantity and stability, through analysis of a foam rate, provides a valuable tool for formulators who wish to use FBT to enhance the foam quality of otherwise poor-foaming detergents, such as decyl glucoside. Decyl glucoside (Planteran 2000 N UP®:j:), a natural-based detergent used in body washes and shampoos, has had minimal marketing impact in the cosmetic industry. This is due primarily to the consumer-perceived poor foam quality and quantity of this detergent (5 ). Using the test methods disclosed in this work, a starting formulation including Planteran 2000 N UP® as the primary surfactant has been identified. The foaming performance of this formulation is similar to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), demonstrating the improvement provided by FBT active systems. EXPERIMENT AL FOAM RATE DETERMINATION Solutions of varying corn syrup concentration were prepared according to the formula- tions presented in Table I. :j: Planteran 2000 N UP® (decyl glucoside), Cognis Corporation, Cincinnati, OH, 45232.