440 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 5.0 0.0 non-treatment Siliconized HPS Dimethicone Figure 4. Results of quantitative analysis for silicon of siliconized HPS adsorbed to hair. Cross section picture by SEM Control Mapping by EDS Cross section picture by SEM Silicnized HPS Figure 5. Cross section picture and mapping picture. � 5.0 1] -� 4.0 a 3.0 12.0 � 1.0 � � 0.0 8 Q) CJ) Control Siliconized HPS * Dimethicone Mapping by EDS Figure 6. Comparison of secondary transpiration moisture content. *p 0.01 (paired t-test). conditioner contained siliconized HPS was especially adsorbed on cuticle edge that is easily damaged causing to be hydrophilic by bleaching. MEASUREMENT OF MOISTURIZING EFFECT As shown in Figure 6, the highest secondary transpiration moisture content was the hair treated with siliconized HPS treatment cream. This fact suggested that the increased moisture was carried by the hydrolyzed silk protein and quasi-obstruent film made by alkyl and silicone chain functioned to lock the moisture inside of the hair. And the film prevented hair from loosing water even at 65 ° C. Siliconized HPS was effective enough
2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 441 After After 2.0 hair-dyed hair-dyed 1.5 1.0 0.5 L==7 � � 0.0 Control Siliconized Control Siliconized HPS HPS Figure 7. Discoloring degree of hair treated. to give both wettability and moisture feel to hair which was so damaged as to be easily dried up by a hair dryer. MEASUREMENT OF ANTI-DISCOLORING EFFECT Figure 7 displays LiE value of dyed hair tresses before and after shampooing 5 times. LiE value of the hair treated with siliconized HPS hair treatment cream was not changed so much. On the contrary, the value of LiE which was treated with control hair treatment cream showed 1. 7 point of color fading. Siliconized HPS brought anti-discoloring effect to hair. We consider that hydrolyzed protein part was adsorbed to the damaged hair surface which had been highly hydro- philic, and the rest of the part of siliconized HPS made film on the hair surface which prevented the color pigments from being washed off. CONCLUSIONS Siliconized HPS prevented dyed hair from discoloring and improved moist feel on hair. In addition, substantivity of siliconized HPS to damaged hair was superior to that of dimethicone and these effects were demonstrated especially in damaged hair study. Effects of siliconized HPS on hair were due to such a unique structure which contained both hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts. We had concluded that siliconized HPS was one of useful ingredient for damaged hair. REFERENCES (1) S. Daikai, S. Nagao, and S. Uchida, Fragrance]., 6, 65-71 (2000). (2) S. Nezu, Fragrance]., 6, 28-32 (2000). (3) S. Tamagawa, H. Shintani, and M. Yoshioka,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan., 27(3), 469-473 (1993). (4) S. Watanabe and K. Yahagi,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan., 29(1), 64-68 (1995). (5) S. Nagao and S. Uchida, Fragrance]., 17, 169-174 (2000). (6) M. F. Bories et al., Int.]. Cosmet. Sci. 6, 201-211 (1984). (7) S. Uchida, K. Uehara, and M. Yoshioka,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Japan., 36(2), 102-110 (2002).
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