105 100 l 95 UJ 90 UJ 85 .!: 80 "iii 75 0:: 70 65 0 105 100 � 95 UJ 90 UJ 85 w ·2 80 'iii 75 0:: 70 65 0 2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE 50 100 150 --Control A SH-AL-1(A) 200 Equilibrium Time (Min) at 85% RH Figure 4. Remaining elasticity of hair washed with SH-AL-1 shampoo. ..,.._Control B _._PQ-70 399 250 -------------- - - - - --- - --- - 50 100 150 200 Equilibrium Time (min) at 85%RH Figure 5. RE of hair washed with PQ-70-containing shampoo. 250 less moisture is capable of penetrating into hair under 80% RH. Based on the experi- mental results it may be concluded that addition of 1 % of Polyquaternium-70 into SH-1 shampoo improved its humidity resistance performance. Five shampoo samples were evaluated and their hair humidity resistance factors at different equilibrium time were calculated and presented in Figure 6. It is seen that only
400 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE �SH-AL-1 _,._ PQ-67 (0.5%) -a-PQ-70 (1%) Jo-Guar (0.5%) -e-PQ-10 (0.2%) 1.15 ._ 1.10 LL 1.05 a, J! 1.00 rn · a! 0.95 � -a 0.90 'i§ £ 0.85 0.80 0 50 100 150 Equilibrium Time (Minutes) 200 Figure 6. H 2 RF of different shampoos at various equilibrium times. 250 the shampoo containing PQ-70 showed higher humidity resistance factors. Even after 4 hours of equilibrium time, the remained elasticity is still 6% higher than that of the untreated hair. Shampoos containing PQ-67 or Guar did not show any benefits on hair humidity resistance. Hair treated with the shampoo containing PQ-10 showed decrease in hair remaining elasticity this is an indication of hair moisturization. Unfortunately, the moisturized hair exhibited higher wet combing force due to the absorption of extra water. HAIR IMAGES OF FRIZZY HAIR AT DIFFERENT RH Digital images of frizzy hair tresses were taken at 50% and 80% RH and presented in Figure 7. It is clearly shown that there were significant changes in hair volume and curvature of a fizzy hair sample due to an increase in the environmental humidity. In order to understand the mechanism of hair frizz, the average ellipticity (the ratio of maximum diameter to minimum diameter of a hair fiber) of different types of hair fibers was determined using a Laser Scanning Micrometer LSM-5000. It is observed that naturally curly and kinky hairs have higher average ellipticity than other types of hair such as oriental hair and Caucasian hair. Data are presented in Table II. Due to the large differences in two main diameters on hair cross-section, moisture has pronounced effects on hair curvature and volume, and therefore, naturally-curly and kinky hair is the frizziest hair among all types of hairs. Image Analysis is a very useful tool to see the difference of hair under various environ- mental RH and used for evaluations of anti-frizz performance of hair care formulation by comparing images of hair samples at different humidity before and after cosmetic treatments. Figure 8 shows images of a frizzy hair tress at 50% and 80% RH before and
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