Isopropyl Isostearate Ceteyl alcohol Steartorimonium chloride Emulsifying polymer* 1 Siliconized HPS Dimethicone Amodimethicone Water 2006 TRI/PRINCETON CONFERENCE Table I Formulas of Hair Treatment Cream (w/w%) Control 3.0 qs 100.0 Siliconized HPS 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 14.0 3.0 8.0 Dimethicone 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 437 Amodimethicone 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 * 1 Mixture of sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethitaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG, Seppic, France) in Table II. One gram of correspond hair treatment was applied to each hair tress. Subsequently, each hair tress was kept for 10 minutes at 40°C on plastic film, rinsed with distilled running water for 15 seconds and dried with a hair dryer. Each treated hair tress was soaked in 30 ml of mixed solvent (chloroform: methanol = 2:1 (v/v)) for 20 minutes with agitation by ultrasonic device to extract polymers adhering to the hair surface. After evaporation of the solvent in vacuum to dryness, the residue was solved and diluted in methylisobutylketone for quantitative analysis of silicon. Measurement of substantivity. Quantitative analysis of silicon contained in the extract from each tress was carried out with ICP (Inductively coupled plasma) photometer (model SPSl 700HVR. Seiko Densi CO., Ltd.) (4), while silicon content was calculated in unit weight of siliconized HPS and dimethicone. Then, the weight per gram of hair of the substance to each tress was estimated based on both quantitative analysis of silicon and silicon content in unit weight of siliconized HPS and dimethicone. SUBSTANTIVITY (MEASURED WITH EDS) Preparation of hair sample. A tress of normal hair was prepared in 15 cm length and 2.0 grams weight, and the tress was treated with test formulation as shown in Table III, kept for 10 minutes at 40°C, rinsed with distilled running water for 60 seconds and dried with a hair dryer. Measurement of substantivity. Substantivity of Siliconized HPS was confirmed by measure- ment of Si deposition on the hair surface. An energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (model JED-2300, JEOL Ltd.) was employed for measurement of Si distribution. Table II Formulas of Hair Treatment Cream (w/w%) Siliconized HPS Dimethicone (6000cs) Dimethicone (1 0000cs) Emulsifying polymer 3.0 3.0 3.0 Siliconized HPS 5.0 Dimethicone (6000cs) 5.0 Dimethicone (lO000cs) 5.0 Water qs 100.0 qs 100.0 qs 100.0
438 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Table III Test Formulation (w/w%) Siliconized HPS 5.0 Propylene glycol 95.0 MEASUREMENT OF MOISTURIZING EFFECT Preparation of hair sample. Three tresses of bleached hair were prepared in 15 cm length and 1.5 grams weight, and the tresses were treated by spreading of 2.0 grams weight of each hair treatment cream as shown in Table IV, kept for 10 minutes at 40°C and dried with a hair dryer. Before the water loss was measured, hair was cut in 1 cm length. Measurement of water loss. In order to measure water loss, electric moisture balance (model: EB-330MOC, Simadzu Co., Ltd.) was employed (5). A fragment of hair (300 mg, 1 cm length) was placed on a saucer of the balance, and the change of weight by heating was recorded every 30 seconds. The sample hair was heated for the first 40 minutes at 65°C which is assumed to be the temperature in normal use of a hair dryer, and for the next 30 minutes at 180°C to evaporate whole water contained in hair (6). As shown in Figure 2, the first converging point (A) was observed between 30 and 40 minutes after starting to heat, and the second converging point (B) was observed between 60 and 70 minutes. Based on the difference of weights between A and B, the secondary transpiring moisture content was calculated according to the above equation. MEASUREMENT OF COLOR RETENTION EFFECT Preparation of hair sample. Two tresses of bleached hair were prepared in 15 cm length and 1.5 grams weight, and a commercially available hair dye (red color) was applied. Both the tresses were kept for 30 minutes at 40°C after application of the hair dye, and then rinsed with distilled running water. One of the tress was washed with sodium polyoxy- ethylen (3) laurylether sulfate (1 % water solution) containing 0.1 % of siliconized HPS, and the other one was washed with sodium polyoxyethylen (3) laurylether sulfate (1 % water solution) without Siliconized HPS as a control for 10 minutes at 40°C with mild agitation. And each the tress was rinsed for 30 seconds with distilled running water, and dried with a hair dryer. This washing process was repeated 5 times for each the tress. Measurement of degree of discoloring. Degree of discoloring was measured by color laser profile with use of analyzing function of laser microscope (model: VK-8500, Keyence Co., Ltd.) according to Uchida's method (7). Emulsifying polymer Siliconizel HPS Dimethicone Water Table IV Formulas of Hair Treatment Cream (w/w%) Control 3.0 qs 100.0 Siliconized HPS 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0 Dimethicone 3.0 1.0 qs 100.0
Previous Page Next Page